The Camino de Santiago -June – July 2023

Legacy has it that the remains of the Apostle St. James the Great were buried in the Cathedral at the city of Santiago de Compostela – and there are numerous routes that you can follow to get there – There is no singular starting point – but we chose the Camino Portuguese – (the second most popular route behind the Camino Frances) – We also chose to combine the coastal route with the Camino central – Here is our journey.

Our Camino began in Porto, Portugal – the second largest city in Portugal – It is known as the city of bridges which all run over the Douro River. And thus, our bridge to what would become a journey of a lifetime – One that cannot be adequately portrayed in words – (if you have walked the Camino, you already know) – but one that must be shared with others – It is a physical, spiritual, mental, social, individual, painful, rewarding, challenging, meditative, visually stunning, friendship forming and life changing walk – It is the Way!

We decided to spend the first 18 miles (Day #1) walking along the coastal route – mostly along boardwalks, sand, and a few paved roads – We hugged the ocean, walked through fishing villages, met our first pilgrim friends, stopped for water refills, coffee, and a very large bowl of rice and beans (which we shared with our new friends) – We also picked out our “Camino Shells” – the iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. The shell represents the different routes traveled by Pilgrims from around the world, leading to one singular destination – the tomb of Saint James – It is worn on your backpack and also represents spiritual protection for the journey – Along all of the routes on the Camino, the shells (painted, carved and tiled), as well as arrows, mark the direction to follow to stay on the path –

Right off the start, we met Petra – a German woman who was walking alone on her first day because her walking partner had fallen ill the night before. She asked, in broken English, if she could walk with us as she was nervous about starting the pilgrimage alone – and we quickly developed our first friendship with a fellow pilgrim. Halfway through our day, we invited another loner to walk with us – Sean, from Canada. This would be his 5^th Camino and he had many stories! We talked, we laughed, we encouraged each other, and we walked in sync for many miles – In Lebruge, we parted ways with Petra as she left to reconnect with her friend – and continued our path with Sean until reaching our first stopping place for the day – Vila do Conde – Promising to meet up again somewhere on our 280 km journey, we said our goodbyes and set out to find our accommodations for the evening.

Vila do Conde, one of the oldest settlements in Portugal, with an ancient aqueduct that stretches 4 km though the town. One night of rest, a bit of repacking (and discarding unnecessary items to lighten our loads) and an early rise to switch from the Coastal Route and begin walking the Camino Central –

Day #2 = “Somewhere between the start of the trail and the end is the mystery of why we choose to walk”

Leaving the ocean behind as we switch to the Camino Central, we entered a world of farms fenced in by stone walls, hidden gardens, vineyards, beautiful churches, dirt trails, and cobblestones streets. Still energetic and feeling strong, we walked together in harmony admiring the countryside, talking about life and dreams, and greeting other pilgrims along the way with “Bom Camiño” – We met another German named Nicole and walked together for a few miles – taking a short cut through corn fields – until she bid us “Auf Wiedersehen” so she could quicken her pace to the next resting stop. We continued onto Barcelos, a small town that rests on the banks of the Cavado River -A total of 20 miles today to reach the birthplace of the famous and colorful Rooster of Barcelos (the most iconic symbol of Portugal).

Our spirits were feeling great, our legs were strong, our senses were heightened and we were in deep gratitude for the blessing of this journey together – However, when we reached the days destination, Todd realized that his careful bandaging of a “hot spot” had slipped and he was now the not so proud recipient of a blood blister the size of a baseball! Hotel check-in, limp to the closest pharmacy, and tend to the first casualty of the Camino. Afterwards, we enjoyed a light dinner in the plaza and met two young German pilgrims named Marta and Inna. Marta was suffering from her own collection of blisters and was unsure if she would be able to continue the next day. Foot care is the one of the most important aspects of the Camino – but even the most meticulous care isn’t a guarantee that you won’t experience pain, swelling, blisters or other feet maladies that can make walking challenging – I had my own – throbbing and swelling of the tendon in my left foot – and the blackening of two toes which meant I would inevitably lose the toe nails.

We were now learning the first lesson of the Camino – keep going to keep moving forward! When life gets hard, keep going, even if it is one step at a time.

Day #3 “Walk with the knowledge that you are never alone” (Audrey Hepburn)

Departing Barcelos meant hiking miles of uphill paved roads and dodging crazy Portuguese drivers until finally flattening out on a sea of green fields, dirt roads, orange rooftop casitas and a rhythmic scenery that would carry us through more miles of large stone roads, rustic wooden painted doors, and country farmlands filled with animals. There were long stretches void of actual towns which meant no opportunities to stop for water refills or bathroom breaks. Instead, we found stone fountains with fresh spring water for quenching our thirst, and hidden trees and corners for … well you know … depositing the water we were drinking. We continued to follow the blue tile signs with the yellow shells and arrows, and stopped at ice cold river spots to soak our achy feet. As much as we enjoyed the sounds of the land – we found it useful to share the ear pods we brought and listen to podcasts in order to distract us from the heat and the hunger pains of the long stretches of open land that offered no opportunities to recharge or rest. But finally, the Camino provided! We found a small café and we were not only able to refuel but we also re-encountered our friend Nicole along with James from Ireland, and Chris from … you guessed it … Germany!

Newly fed bellies, freshly wrapped feet, water replenished, and friendships aligned, we continued the rest of our 20-mile day as a group – The combination of my walking poles, shared laughter, and stories of our adventures helped me forget about my swollen painful feet to make it the rest of the way to Ponte de Lima, the oldest town in Portugal.

 It was named after the medieval bridge that passes over the Lima River- and it was in this town that we experienced our first true serendipitous moment. Not only did we run into Todd’s cousin from Colorado who was traveling through Portugal with his wife – but we were all staying that the same guest inn! Physically exhausted, over heated, and in pain, it was time for a shower, some elevated feet time, a quick nap and then off to dinner with the relatives! Thank goodness we had decided to stay in Ponte de Lima for 2 nights to recover and prepare the what would be the longest day of our Camino. After saying goodbye to the cousins, we met up again with Marta – the German pilgrim who suffered from blistered feet back in Barcelos – She made it! However, due to the many injuries on both of her feet, she had decided that this would be the ending point for her Camino. After some delicious Gelato, hours of incredible conversations and an exchange of What’s App information, we said our goodbye and promised to keep in touch. It was time for some rest in order to prepare the next day’s peregrination.

Day #4 – “When in doubt, just take the next small step” (Paulo Coelho)

Leaving Ponte de Lima an hour later than planned, we began our walk undecided if we would make it all of the way to Tui, Spain (25 miles) or stop for the night halfway. Everyone told us we were crazy to attempt that in one day. Both of my feet were now swollen but I was feeling determined – Todd’s blister was almost fully healed and he is always feeling determined! So, we crossed the medieval bridge to the awakening colors of a beautiful crisp morning reflecting over the river and mentally encouraged each other for the long day of uphill and eventual scorching sun ahead of us. We tested our balance as we climbed over cobblestone ledges, strolled through picturesque forests, made room for too many bicyclists on todays route, dodged crowds of sheep running loosely through colorful farm towns, and we welcomed cold water rivers for our throbbing feet. We climbed, and we climbed, and we climbed – and when I thought we were done climbing, we climbed some more! By the time I had decided that I could not walk one more step, there were no more options for a place to stop for the night- Determination was the only option – Every step felt like hundreds of daggers stabbing my feet, and the hot sun had left burns on my calves that felt like boiling, oozing liquid running down my legs. 

For the final 5 miles or so, we walked in a prayerful silence. One foot in front of the other – Nothing more. Nothing less. By the time we reached the bridge that would cross us over into Spain the only sounds I had left in me were those of quiet sobs. They were tears of pain – tears of joy – tears of relief – tears of pride – and mostly tears of gratitude to God who had given me the strength to not quit. We walked across the bridge and took a taxi to the hotel – Our beautiful accommodations that we would rest at for 2 nights felt more like a castle than a hotel, and the views of the river did not disappoint. A perfect place to catch our breaths!  – Feet up, feet in cold water tub, feet in hot water tub, and repeat for 48 hours! We made one outing to a local Italian restaurant for the most delicious pizza and lemon beer I had ever experienced, one stop at a pharmacy for Sunburn Cream, one quick swim in the Miño River, and one short walk around the beautiful town of Tui (Gallic for Mockingbird), the capital of one of the 7 ancient kingdoms of Galicia. This part of Spain is an autonomous region and has two official languages – Spanish and Gallego. It actually has more in common with the Celtic Regions that it does with the rest of Spain.

Day # 5 – “Where you go, go with all your heart” (Confucius)

Leaving Tui and walking to Redondela represented many steep climbs followed by even steeper descents. What goes up must certainly have to come down. I didn’t mind this as I am much stronger descending than ascending but my husband struggled on the down.  Today’s journey offered a tremendous amount of diversity for our feet. Paved road, grassy cobblestones, fields of dirt, farmland and vineyards, and even sandy beaches! Approximately halfway to Redondela we reached the “Now within 100 km to Santiago de Compostela”. This is the minimum amount of walking allowed in order to get your official Pilgrimage Certificate so the roads became a bit more populated! Even with the growing number of pilgrims, I must say that I never felt overwhelmed or crowded. There were still stretches where I thought we were the only ones on the Camino. But in the cafes and small towns along the way, you felt the crowds while waiting for a bathroom or a cup of coffee.   This part of the Camino is considered moderately challenging by many of the pilgrim websites perhaps because you walk for 20 miles and the terrain is so diverse.  I think this part was much easier than walking into to Tui! One of my favorite things (that I didn’t know what they were until I googled them) were the Horreos. These are granaries made from stone and wood and raised above the ground on pillars and are used to store crops (mostly corn). They are everywhere!

Redondela, the town we would sleep in, is known as the villa of viaducts. There are two massive railways that soar over the town. No matter where you are in town, you can’t miss them! My favorite spot was laying on Cesantes Beach and looking at the beautiful bridge of Rande, the blue waters and the intriguing island of San Simon, which I later found out (courtesy of a local taxi driver) that the island has been used as a monastery, a prison, an orphanage and even a concentration camp to house Franco regime political prisoners during the Civil war. It is now used for socio-cultural activities such as art and music conferences and camps and is now referred to as La Isla del Pensamiento (The Island of the Thought) – Redondela really is a beautiful gem and I was glad we had an opportunity to explore a bit.

Day #6 “The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wildness.” (John Muir)

Redondela to Pontevedra was probably the most colorful part of the Camino thus far. We walked through hills overlooking the spectacular waters of the Rio Vigo. We maneuvered across stone passages (not cobble but rather large and randomly placed stones), and the lushest green forest I have seen in real life. I felt like I was walking through a scene from The Hobbit and half expected fairies to pop out from behind the moss-covered trees. Every few kilometers, we encountered Pilgrim made “altars” where people leave precious items behind. Although today was only a 13-mile walk, it wasn’t the fastest simply because there were so many things to stop and look at.  In a town called A Ponte, the busiest part of today due to construction, we crossed an authentic arched roman bridge made of stone, and while walking through the forest we stopped to listen to an old man playing the bagpipes. Visions such as these are what you see in movies and yet this was my life!

If you are walking this route, you will reach a place after A Ponte where you must decide – do I take the efficient road filled with pavement and traffic or do I veer off towards the Camino Espiritual for a few kilometers. My choice was easy! I will always opt for spiritual rather than efficient.

Arriving to Pontevedra, we stopped for the most mouthwatering grilled oysters and of course another Cerveza de limon. Today was a great day!

Day #7 – Pontevedra to Caldes de Reis

“Home is behind, the World ahead” (a walking son, J.R.R. Tolkien)

Before departing Pontevedra I must point out that this town is called “The City of Children”. An incredibly fitting title for a quaint and friendly town that is family oriented. Every plaza is filled with children playing, families walking, laughing and actually talking with one another. I didn’t see one teenager on his cell phone!

Today we would walk less than 14 miles and we would check into a hotel with a pool! I was very excited for a little luxury! There are many options for accommodations on the Camino. Many stay in the albergues, where you share a room and bathroom with 10-20 other Pilgrims.  My husband and I opted to stay in guest rooms and small Airbnb’s with our own bathrooms, so we were already splurging as far as Camino standards go. However, this would be the first actual hotel with amenities on our journey and I knew that a few of the friends we had made along the Camino would also be staying there. This all served as a great motivator and put an extra pep in my step for our day of walking!  Today’s journey did not disappoint. Babbling brooks, more Lord of the Rings forests (I still couldn’t see the fairies but I knew they had to be there!) and an exceptionally chatty day with everyone we met along the way. We were having so much fun making new friends that I barely took any photographs.

The hotel in Caldes de Reis was perfect, comfortable and close to everything. We had lunch with some new friends from California, and dinner with our new friends from Germany. I ate too much food and drank too much wine and enjoyed every minute of our time in Caldes de Reis. We should have gone to the hot springs in town, but instead decided to wash clothes and float in the swimming pool at the hotel.  It was an incredibly surreal feeling to realize just how close we now were to Santiago de Compostela.

Day # 8 – Caldes de Reis to Padrón

“One of the gifts that the Camino offers is the freedom to be yourself.  This freedom is liberating. (Jane V Blanchard)

What was once a Roman City was now a short 22 km walk from Caldes de Reis.  It’s interesting what I know consider a short walk. Back home, I would have complained at having to walk a few miles and now I find myself craving longer distances. By this part of our journey, we rarely knew what day of the week it was. It was not longer important. Today was whatever day it was where we met an animated young girl from Puerto Rico doing a solo journey and a young English and Spanish couple who were faced with a dilemma of blisters and no bandaids. But the Camino always provides! This time we were able to provide assistance, and share all of the right foot saviors so that they could continue without pain. I have been incredibly grateful at how organized my husband has been with our medical ziplock bag!

Today was filled with beautiful home front gardens and so many sunflowers! No matter where you are, flowers always bring sunshine to the spirit. We walked past above ground cemeteries filled with history, stone water falls (really sprinkles) that were perfect for quenching our thirst and even sometimes soaking my tired feet. It was probably the most reflective day on the Camino so far. Perhaps because we knew that we were so close to the end? Where once we had walked side by side, today we spent most of the day at least 20 steps apart.  The paths were easy, the hills were few, the temperatures were perfect and our souls were emotional. During our walk to Tui, I didn’t know if I would make it. However today, I didn’t want the Camino to end.

We arrived to a small town of approx. 700 people at the top of a breathtaking Fjord. Padron is the birthplace of many famous writers and poets and home of the Pimientos de Padrón. You cannot come to Padrón without tasting these amazing salted peppers!

Day #9 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela

“It’s your road and yours alone. Others may walk it with you but no one can walk it for you.” (Rumi)

Our final day walking the Camino de Santiago!  Although today was the most painful day for me and my feet, it was also the most spiritual and surreal day of this entire experience. We spent the first part of the day walking with new friends from California, and for the first time had to take out the rain ponchos. Once the weather cleared, and the sun graced us with its presence again (the final 5 miles) we all parted ways. This was no longer to be a shared experience.

Many years ago, my mother and I had talked about doing this journey together. It was a mother and daughter bucket list item. Unfortunately, she passed away before we were able to realize the dream but I brought her ashes with me and felt her presence with each step I took. Today I walked alone but felt her with me every step. I spoke out loud to her, laughed with her, and cried for her for miles and I knew that she was with me.  Today was spiritual not physical. Today was embracing love not pain. Today was the end of the most fulfilling experience that I have ever had. As much as I love to travel, no trip could ever compare to walking the Camino de Santiago.

We arrived to the main part of Santiago, with only a few short steps away from the plaza that houses the cathedral, where all pilgrims, regardless of the paths walked convene. And just before we step foot onto the plaza we saw our friend from the first day, Shawn from Canada.  Although we had only spent one afternoon walking with him, we felt like we were reconnecting with family. Long embraces and celebrations of our journeys were the perfect way to reach our destination.

The plaza, filled with pilgrims from all walks of life and all corners of the earth represents the end of one journey and the beginning of another. It is here where I sprinkled my mothers’ ashes, amidst the celebrations, laughter and tears of hundred of strangers who knew what I was feeling.  After putting away my walking sticks for the last time, I sat on the ground next to my backpack and shed my tears while staring up at the iconic symbol of The Camino, the way of St. James.