Tomorrow we were supposed to fly to Paris for two nights. Then take a train to Saint Jean Pied de Port where we will begin our 500 mile walk to Santiago de Compostela.
However… travelling abroad sometimes gets tricky! It’s 11:00 pm and we were just notified that our flights have been cancelled due to Air Traffic Control strike in Paris!

We booked our tickets on Orbitz – but now have been on the phone and disconnected twice from agents who aren’t sure how to handle the cancelation, issue us a credit and apply that credit to another flight that flies to Toulouse, France (where there is currently no strike!). We usually use Orbitz because there are many good deals on flights – but not purchasing directly from the airline creates the exact situation we are in tonight. So, we wait on eternal hold, cross our fingers and say a prayer that we can resolve this and still make a flight tomorrow without having to pay a lot more money. Planning this trip a year in advance has not saved us from the last minute snags – I really hope I don’t have to walk to France to start walking in France!

I hope to continue this blog FROM FRANCE tomorrow!

A 1.5 hour ride to the train station in West Palm Beach… a 2 hour train ride to Miami International airport… a 2 hour wait for the 7 hour flight to Lisbon, Portugal… a 4 hour wait in Lisbon for the flight to Toulouse, France… a 1.5 hour flight followed by a 15 minute shuttle and 5 minute walk and we are flat on our backs ready for a nap! Long first part of the journey but we are here! Tomorrow we will figure out how to get to Saint Jean Pied de Port!

Toulouse is a beautiful town that is bisected by the Garonne River and sits near the Spanish border. It is called La Ville Rose (the Pink City) because of the numerous terra-cotta brick buildings.
After our long and exhausting journey, we arrived to The Social Hub, a centrally located and affordable hotel that caters to travelers, remote working locals, and college students The staff are young, vibrant, multi-lingual and extremely friendly and helpful! Also, the hotel is situated just across from the Pierre Baudia Japanese Gardens!
We took the bus to the Toulouse Matabiau (train station) in order to purchase our tickets for tomorrow to Saint Jean Pied de Port. Two Americans + Google translate + forgiving French people = mission complete!
next, we walked around 20 minutes through alley ways, cobblestone side streets and plazas to the local Compostela office (the Chemins de Compostelle) to purchase our Pilgrims Passports. A beautiful lady named Cathy assisted us with everything! These passports will get stamped in every town along the Camino and must be shown at the end of the 500 miles in order to receive the official Compostela Certificate, proving that we did the Camino! As if our weary feet won’t be proof enough!

Toulouse’s, which is most noted for production of aircraft and aerospace equipment is perhaps the friendliest of any French town that I have visited. it is not overly touristy, but there are a plethora of dining and cultural opportunities to explore. And if you love ping-pong… a stroll through the gardens is a must!

The train to Saint Jean Pied de Port travels via Bayonne and all together took is 5 hours. The first 3 hours took us through a beautiful countryside with snow capped mountains peaking out in the distance. The seats are comfortable enough, and the table between us meant we could play our favorite card game to pass the time! Kings in the corner! Figuring out which car we were assigned to proved to be the only challenge of the day!
One hour stop in Bayonne allowed us to stretch our legs and become acquainted with what is known as the Capital of the French Basque Country. It is also called “The city of art and history.”
We had such a short time to explore, we only managed to walk across the. Ridge and head to Saints Marie Cathedral, which is a focal point no matter where you are in the city. Back to the train, and onto the final 1 hour leg of today’s journey to Saint Jean Pied de Port.
As soon as we arrived, we were greeting by Xavier, a tour guide for the city. He gave us our first stamp in our Pilgrims passport, shared a map of city, gave us directions to our hotel, and engaged us in a 30 minute fascinating education about the mysterious history of the Basque people and their unique language. There are numerous theories and conspiracies on the origin of the Basque people, including those who believe that they are descendants of aliens and even a legend that says that the Devil tried to learn their language by hiding behind the door of a Basque farmhouse. The most recent study shows that Basques are descendants of Neolithic farmers who mixed with local hunters and then became genetically isolated from the rest of Europe . In modern days, I am thrilled to learn that their language is being preserved and taught in schools alongside French!

Following our conversations with Xavier, we found our room- and may I add – with a magnificent view! We explored the town, climbed too many stairs (good training for tomorrows hike), purchased fromage, crackers and fruit for tomorrows walking snacks, ate the most unusual and delicious crepes, organized, showered, and called it a day before the sun finished setting!

Tomorrow begins with 16 miles of mostly uphill walking and the end of our time in France as we will arrive into Roncesvalles, Spain sometime before it gets dark!

Bayonne

Saint Jean Pied de Port

Day 1 of walking- Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncevalles- 16 miles and noted as the most challenging route of the Camino Frances! Today took us over the Pyrenees for 9 hours (including a few rest breaks and a picnic lunch overlooking the mountains). This is the day that I have been the most nervous about as the elevation of climbing is almost 5,000 feet, and I have knee and back issues. I hardly slept the night before – tossing and turning in fear of the what if’s.

Was it challenging? Absolutely! However, the combination of gorgeous weather, breathtaking views and sense of accomplishment with each step made today one of the most rewarding days I’ve ever had while traveling.
I have seen many photos and videos from pilgrims who had completed this leg of the Camino before me, but there really is no way to completely capture the awe-inspiring views, mountain scents, sounds of the wind and cow bells or the euphoria one feels while climbing into the wilderness, far from any town and surrounded by grazing animals and fellow pilgrims who come from every corner of the world.
A healthy fear of the mountains is good! I am very happy that I didn’t let it cripple me! Conquering your fears while pushing your body and strengthening mind over body is exactly what day 1 on the Camino offers! As I sit in Rocenvalles with a lemon beer in hand, I feel peace, pride, and relief!
Merci France for sharing your mountains with me!

day 2- Roncevalles to Zubiri

One of my favorite aspects of walking the Camino are the friends you make along the way. After a grueling day of crossing over the Pyrenees, we were rewarded with a Pilgrims dinner of pasta, chicken and wine, laughter and great conversations with our new friends from England and Germany.
Everyone has a reason for doing the Camino. Some embark on the journey as a fitness challenge, others as a religious or spiritual walking meditation and others as a means to align themselves in body, mind and spirit. Many are at a crossroads in their lives or use the Camino to help them make large life decisions. Our new friends shared their very personal stories with us over dinner, and each one of their stories fit perfectly into the reasons why we walk. As they have not given me permission to share their stories, I will just leave it with the inspiration and gratitude that filled the air of our little albergue dining room. People always speak of the many serendipitous moments encountered on the Camino. I just didn’t think they would occur on the first couple of nights of a 500 mile journey.
We began our walk from Roncevalles to Zubiri at 6:00 am. Only a few hills today at the beginning of the 13 mile trek, and then flat before descending down rocky and uneven terrain. Although it was a chilly 50*f, it did not rain! Walking these technically challenging paths in wet muddy conditions would have been brutal!
Today’s path wound us through beautiful forests and peekaboo farmlands with rolling hills every so many miles. We met Chris, from Australia, and walked with him for a few hours. He shared his personal stories of illnesses and experiences and I was once again left humbled and grateful. The depth of conversation that occurs among strangers while walking is remarkable. Do we open up so much because we doubt we will see each other again? Or because we quickly connect on a deeper spiritual level? So many kindred spirits encountered among so many strangers from around the world- just sharing a human experience for a few hundred miles!
Once in Zubiri, we were reunited with Jake and Mara (our English and German friends from just yesterday. We shared another meal, more laughter, and then parted ways to search for our accommodations. We were all staying in different places for the night.
Zubiri is a quaint and tiny town that seems to exist solely for the purpose of housing pilgrims. Most of the apartments have been converted to albergues and guest houses and there are only a couple of small restaurants that close early. It was just enough to eat, shower, and sleep to prepare for tomorrow’s walk to Pamplona.

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Day 3- Zubiri to Pamplona

Although not nearly as challenging as the first day of crossing over the Pyrenees , this part of our journey still presented a few challenging climbs. Perhaps due to tired legs from two days of walking and perhaps because there were more climbs today than I had anticipated- but luckily by the mid point, I found my second wind and muscle memory kicked in so well that the second half of the day felt almost too easy!
The first few miles had us walk through an industrialized area but we climbed high enough above the magnesium plant that it didn’t impede the beautiful background scenery. After passing through, we reached a sleepy little town called Aquerreta. I read, after we walked through, that the town was made famous thanks to Martin Sheen and his movie The Way. It was here where the characters Tom and Sarah met for the first time. If you are thinking of walking the Camino, I highly recommend this movie!

Shortly after this town, we started walking through a beautiful countryside that followed the Agra River and passed numerous fly fishermen enjoying the day as well as pilgrims enjoying a foot soak in the cold waters. And then a wonderful outdoor cafe snuggled in between the forested path and the river. A large metal sculpture of a Pilgrim welcomed us as we joined a few other groups who stopped to rest, drink, and eat (and of course use the bathroom!) This is pretty much the only stop available before reaching Pamplona so we stopped, ate delicious home-cooked food, chatted with an American from Texas who had just finished his 4 years with the Army and was walking the Camino prior to beginning law school. We also met up with Jake, our English friend from the last two towns. We ate, we laughed ( a daily occurrence when breaking bread with Pilgrim friends), and continued our walk with Jake. Actually, it was Jake and Todd walking ahead of me for most of the afternoon! I was happy to enjoy some solo walking so that I could stop and photograph as often as I wanted and continue at my own rhythm.
A bit more diversity in terrain, a few small towns and mini cities, and then… the towers of the Cathedral just ahead as we arrived at the Magdalena Bridge and the entrance to the city of Pamplona (most famous for the Running of the Bulls). I was not prepared for this amazing, vibrant, and festive city! So many people everywhere! All laughing, drinking, eating, and enjoying life! Within the first 5 minutes of arriving I was ecstatic that we had decided to spend two nights here!

A few of the highlights from our short 48 hour visit-

1. Processions through the streets with church bells ringing and priests chanting.
2. Couples dancing tango in the main plaza
3. An outdoor bookstore that wrapped around the plaza
4. Reconnecting with pilgrims that we had met the day before and sharing a pint at a local Pub
5. Watching Real Madrid win surrounded by screaming locals!
6. Our very comfy bed in a real hotel and washing our clothes in the bath tub!
   Tomorrow, we continue on The Camino, but just for today I will enjoy the streets of Pamplona since the bulls won’t be running here until July!

Day 4- Pamplona to Puente La Reina

On our final night in Pamplona, I was not feeling well. I took a hot bath (yes, our room had a bathtub!) and fell asleep early. The next morning, at 5 am I Ignored the body aches and overall malaise so I could get into the walking groove Through the city, over many hills and parks, and up steep roads to leave Pamplona- meant 100% focus on walking, not being sick! After a few miles, the legs grew strong again and the motivation to keep the pace allowed me to continue through hours of the lush and fragrant landscape that surrounded each step! How I would love to bottle the scents from today!
We met Pilgrims from all over the world – Texas, France, Australia, Israel, and Texas. My favorites from today were Kate and Emma, two sisters who were doing the Camino together because one really wanted to and the other didn’t want her to go alone. True sisterly love! Especially because the supporting sister was struggling with every climb! In between short conversations with many pilgrims, I counted steps to make it up the steep inclines, snapped photographs of the gorgeous flowers that enhances the terrain and made me wish I was a painter. Endless possibilities for a blank canvas!
The second half of the day involved going down once again. Although every day so far has included multiple ups and downs (metaphor for life perhaps), each day brought unique ways to navigate the downs. Today we had steps that felt like they were made for Giants and so much loose gravel that I am sure if I hadn’t used my walking poles, I would have had some brutal falls. I know Todd’s poles saved him from at least one potential disaster!
As we neared Puente La Reina (named after Queen Dona Mayor who insisted a bridge be built over the River Agra) the suns heat intensified, the legs weakened, the feet ached and the flu like symptoms reappeared.
I know we checked into our Airbnb apartment, I know I couldn’t get warm enough even with all of the blankets that covered my body, I know I made it to the bathroom in time to get sick, and I know how much my head hurt Other- than that- I don’t remember when Todd, having used his very limited Spanish managed to get meds from a local pharmacy or at what point he went out to get food or his comments about what a beautiful town Puente La Reina is-

The next morning, we booked a bus to the next town because there was no way possible I would be able to walk 14 miles. Although I remember very little of our stay in that town or the Bus ride to the next town, I do remember feeling grateful to having my travel companion there to take care of me. Going through that alone might have ended the Camino for me.

Puente la Reina to Estela via bus for Day 5. Not much to write about other than by the time we were ready to leave Estela, I felt strong enough to walk again!

Day 6- Estella to Los Arcos

As I was still recovering from whatever Camino flu I got, I cuddle up in bed and Todd went to explore the town- He later said it was one of his favorites so far. Numerous large churches all surrounded by a beautiful river. He learned that this town had been created specifically to serve pilgrims on their journey. Perhaps one day I will return to Estella just to do my own exploration, but on this day- I was grateful for a comfortable bed and peace and quiet.
We decided to leave the next day at 5:30 am in an attempt to beat the heat that was heading straight toward us! After walking for an hour, we came across a blacksmith garden and made our first official Camino purchase- a small metal forged shell that was very much hand made by the blacksmith who lived here. Shortly after, we came across the famous Wine fountain “La fuente del vino”. Traditionally, pilgrims use their shells to drink some wine from the fountain. So I had to try! The wine was not the tastiest- but it was a pilgrim experience!

We reached a fork in the road- to go right meant to follow the path along the highway. To go left meant to climb the foothills and follow the “Way of St. James”. Of course we chose the left! And not only was it breathtaking at ever turn and after every climb, it felt like we were completely alone in the world. 4 miles of just the two of us and nature. Ever second on this path was a spiritual journey.

Once we rejoined the main trail, the temperatures soared and the rest of todays walk was hot and sweaty. We managed one rest stop at a food truck parked in the middle of no where- and then finally to Los Arcos , a tiny town with narrow cobble stone streets and a petite piazza with a cafe. By now, we had met so many people on the way that walking into the piazza felt like a family reunion! Cheers, hugs, shared stories and vino until it was time to check into our accommodations –

Casa de Jerusalem, the oldest building of the town (built in the 1700’s) and the original Albergue serving pilgrims who were walking from Jerusalem to Santiago. It was filled with history and the owners were kind and so informative of its history especially since this place had stayed in the same family from the 1700’s until today!

Day 7- Los Arcos to Logrono

Todays walk began at the crack of dawn, much like most of our wake up calls since it is the best way to beat as much of the heat as possible. Miles upon miles of walking across different terrain is challenging enough without adding the blistering sun resting on our heads for 28km.
Although todays landscape was relatively flat, we did encounter a couple incredibly steep slopes that made me breath as if I were preparing to give birth! We also had some very steep descents but we walked through gorgeous vineyards, olive groves, and fields of wheat and future sunflowers. This entire area is famous for their wines, especially La Rioja.

We only stopped once today, in a picturesque village called Viana, located atop a hill with panoramic views of the countryside. Along todays Camino, we spent time with Nicole, an event coordinator and Es, her client that she was walking with to Logrono. Ed was a man of few words, but Nicole entertained us for hours with stories of her Tour de France events, her vast knowledge of every plant and herb we found along the way and the stories that brought her from the U.S. to living full time in France with her husband.
Following an entertaining picnic in Viana, we continued along the same scenery we had been enjoying all morning and with the final stretch to Logrono, we walked along the banks of the Ebro River, popular with fishermen from around the world.
The entrance to Logrono brought us through a city park, across a bridge, and in to the heart of the historic district. I was so excited that we would be spending two nights here, not solely because of the hotel with a spa that we were booked at, but also because of the festival that would take place across the city during our stay. The Festival of San Bernabé, in honor of their patron saint and commemorating the victory over the French troops in 1521.

A few highlights from our 48 hours in Logrono included:

1. Hotel with spa (hydrotherapy pool, sauna, and steam room)
2. Delicious tapas on every corner
3. Festivities of San Bernabé
4. Conversations with two American pilgrims who had completed the Appalachian trail twice.
5. Cold foot plunge in jetted tub

Logroño to Najera- Day 8

Exiting Logroño brought us through the old town, through a graffitied tunnel, around a beautiful reservoir, and you guessed it… up the hills! I really hope I come home with muscular legs! After a few miles, we wandered into acres upon acres of vineyards, as this area is famous for their red wines, and into small towns with stone streets, rustic stone architecture, and uniquely designed front doors, The doors through our journey have been one of my favorite aspects of the different styles of housing. Wooden, metal, colorful, etched, tiled, and each one completely different from the next.
Today we spent a part of our day walking with our favorite Londener, Jake, and the latter part with our young 18 year old friend Austin. He is doing what I have told my high school students to do… graduate, and travel before life takes over with bills, jobs, family, and all of the adult responsibilities that anchor us in one place. We climbed rocky dirt hills while talking about life and faith. We navigated steep down hills filled with dirt and gravel while talking about the things that shape and influence you into the adult you become, and eventually parted ways before reaching todays destination, Najera. Once we arrived, we reconnected with Jake who would be sharing our 2 bedroom apartment that we rented for the night.
There is not much for me to say about Najera, a small (very small) town that sits on the banks of the River Najerilla, has old and narrow streets and serves very large hamburgers. Tonight, they would crowd the streets (all night) and drink, dance, get drunk and fight until dawn while celebrating La Rioja. When we left at 6:00 am the next morning, we had to swerve around broken bottles, spilled food, and all the other disgusting things you can imagine one finds after an all night outdoor fiesta!

Day 9 – Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Our first somewhat rainy day (in the morning) meant covering our backpacks and putting on our rain ponchos. Uphill to leave Najera (of course) and onto an incredibly scenic trail surrounded by red rocks and extensive vineyards. More climbing than I would have liked, but the twists and turns of the paths made for some spectacular photos… and since I had to stop often to catch my breath, I took advantage of many picture worthy moments, Climb, stop, breathe, sip water, snap photo, keep climbing and repeat… for 14 miles!

As soon as we arrived, we met a pilgrim named Casper. He was a solo 24 year old walker from Denmark who was evaluating life decisions and making his 5 year plan. The maturity of so many of the young people we have met along the way astounds me. After a few lemon cervezas, we all parted ways and Todd and I made our way to our hotel. It was once a convent but was now transformed into part hotel, part church, and part museum.
There wasn’t much to explore in the small town but I did learn of the legend of Santo Domingo. This town was the site of “the hanged innocent” where a pilgrim was wrongly accused of theft and sentenced to death. Legend says that Domingo resurrected the pilgrim and was then given the status of Saint!

Day 10 Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Villambistia

Orange is the theme of today! The early morning sun shining down on the fields we passed created the most spectacular fifty shades of orange! Breathtaking!!

Most of todays walk was on hard road, through fields of wheat, into small towns with large churches and many more of those eccentric doors. We also walked through fields of wildflowers, interesting murals and dropping temperatures.
We “accidentally “ rented an 8 bedroom house in Villambistia (don’t ask) and found at least one pilgrim who didn’t have a place to stay for the night and happily accepted our offer to join us. We stopped at a little grocery store 4 miles from our destination, loaded up and lugged our extra weight to our casa where I cooked us a feast, showered, and Iced my feet while Todd did our laundry. Yea! The house had a washing machine!!! Our evening ended snuggled in a cozy bed watching the Formula 1 race (even on the Camino- we continue to follow our favorite team… McLaren!)

There is a tradition in this town to soak your entire head in the village fountain in order to cleanse the fatigue of todays journey. No! We did no such thing! The temperatures had dropped so much that they only cleansing happening would take place in a hot steamy shower!

Villambistia to Atapuerca – Day 11

We began our day walking with our young friend Austin but since I am always the slowest pace of most pilgrims, we eventually parted ways until reaching todays destination . I was not expecting the insane climbs we faced today, but slowly and steadily I conquered all of them (with very little grace or beauty) but victory nonetheless.
By the time we reached our first resting spot today, my back was on fire, my feet begged to be put out of their misery and I ordered and devoured an entire pizza all by myself! Many pilgrims were scrambling to find an albergue that wasn’t completely full. We had once again “accidentally” rented a house instead of a room and were able to accommodate a couple pilgrims for the night. Thank goodness for WhatsApp so we could each complete the last leg of todays walk independently and communicate our location once we reached Atapuerca. This was a small town with a tiny grocery store where I stocked up on a mishmash of ingredients so that I could cook for us all. Haim, from the Netherlands and of course our adopted young son Austin from Kansas were able to enjoy a nights break from albergues and have their own bedrooms and full bathrooms as well as home cooked dinner, a friendly game of cards, and some of the best conversation we’ve had so far on the Camino. It is always healthy to hear other people’s perspectives on the global issues that affect us all.
The day may have begun with cursing the decision to do this Camino (I despise the long steep climbs) but ended with so much joy and gratitude for all of our experiences and friendships we have forged along “The Way”.

Day 12- Atapuerca to Burgos

A night of laughter and good food turned into a morning of me almost crawling up the very steep hills as we left Atapuerca. As challenging as it always is for me, I remind myself, through tears of pain, that I am a 58+ year old Out of shape woman with back issues carrying 20 lbs on my back and never giving up. It always helps when my husband cheers me on (from the top of the climb) and tells me how proud he is of me. Words of encouragement go along way on the Camino. Perhaps that is why everyone greets each other with Buen Camino, to remind us that this is indeed a good journey.

Today is our final day on the first of three stages on the Camino- aptly called The Body, as each day has challenged every limb and muscle, and each challenge has made us stronger and more resilient. We arrived at the famous cross sitting atop one of the climbs and placed a stone at the foot of the cross while saying a prayer, thanking God for so many blessings in my life: my family, the love in my heart, and the ability to embark on this journey that brings me closer to Him with every step I take.
When we finally reached Burgos, we had to walk through the city park for almost an hour. It’s a beautiful park that runs along the Arlanzón River and is filled with people of all ages taking their daily strolls or commuting to work by foot or on bicycle. Once we left the park, we strolled down an avenue lined with arched trees (I wish I knew what they are called) and as we neared the entrance to the main plaza, the Catedral presented itself in the grandest of ways. It was stunning and grand in every way! We stared at every nook and cranny and discovered new stories of the royal relationship with the church with every glance. It was over powering yet impressive.
For the next two days, we enjoyed this city, rested our bodies and met up with the many pilgrims we had been crossing paths with for days.

Day 13- Burgos to Hornillos This day started with a climb and soon became one of the most spiritual days I’ve had so far. One of my favorite moments occurred when I walked into a little. Church to get my pilgrim passport stamped and encountered a beautiful nun who placed her hands on my head, prayed for me and gave me a small token pendant on a string to hang around my neck for the rest of the journey.
On the way, we saw numerous murals, all with the same theme of love, peace, and faith. And each step today was lathered in all of those things. I felt the light of the prayers said for me in that little church and it gave me strength with each step. I have been having some foot issues lately- plantar fasciitis, skin rubbed raw on the ankle and a blister on the big toe… but for today- my steps felt lighter and energized. The power of prayer!

We arrived into the small town of Hornillos at lunch time- took out our bread, cheese and hummus and relaxed in the only plaza- while talking with a wonderful couple from Australia, Joe and Antoinette and within a few minutes- our young friend Austin arrived and joined us. We could have stayed for hours but our van to the hostal arrived to take us 3 km up a hill to our accommodations for the night, and everyone scattered to their respective albergues and hostals . Ours sat at the top of a hill, offered a pilgrims 3 course meal for $10 per person and even provided us the Opportunity to eat, and watch the Spain soccer game with cheering German fans. All in all, a very satisfying day of blessings and blisters!

Day 14- Hornillos to Castrojeriz

This part of the meseta is predominantly flat; a welcomed rest for my aching back. Endless fields of wheat and practically no cover from the sun. But the colors- oh those color combinations of grassy green (dark and light patches), beiges and browns, and sprinkles of vibrant colors from the wildflowers. God’s perfect work of art!
We stopped for a short break and café con leche in a small town, Hontanas, and just as we were leaving, we stumbled into a beautiful church. We like to get our pilgrims passport stamped at churches when possible. This was by far the most unique! A large photo mural displaying Mother Theresa, Gandhi, Mandela and others hung over a round table filled with candles, cushioned benches and an altar with a cross. It was the most interesting combination of Catholic and Buddhist vibes that I have witnessed! I am glad we stopped here!
We continued our walk for a few more miles before we ran right into (literally) the incredibly impressive 15th century Convento de San Anton- a former convent, now in ruins right in the middle of the Camino. We actually had to walk under Saint Anthony’s arch in order to continue our journey. The rest of the day was flat and graveled with views of Castrojeriz in the distance. Sometimes it feels longer when you can see your destination but you just keep walking for miles without feeling like you are getting any closer.
We finally arrived to our room, on the 2nd floor of a family owned bar/ restaurant, showered, journaled, and joined a group of pilgrims for a delicious dinner before calling it a night.

Day 15- Castrojeriz to Fromista

The radiant colors of the sun rising over the stone houses with Spanish tile roofs left me speechless as we approached our one and only climb for the day. I kept calling the hill in front of us a mountain – probably because we could see the steep stretch of path ahead of us for a few miles before we actually had to begin climbing.
Halfway up, we met an American couple from Indiana and the conversations helped us all continue with more zest than if we would have continued solo. Of course, I still had to stop along the way to take photos of the beautiful green valley below us. The wild flowers in constant bloom have activated my allergies but with all of my other senses so heightened, a few sneezes and runny nose paled in comparison to the awe and wonder the rest of my body and mind were experiencing. We climbed up, over, and down. We walked through fields of wheat, on gravel dirt roads, next to running water, over a dam and into Fromista, where we would spend one night. I loved the Hotel Dona Mayor, a small boutique hotel with a cold plunge pool, yoga mats and a very large and comfortable bed! Most other accommodations had two twin beds, some pushed together, some not. But this was a California King with a Soft down comforter! They also offered foot massages, but at a hefty price of 60 Euros, I decided to massage my own feet!

Day 16- Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

Todays walk was mostly on gravel paths that ran adjacent to a busy road. It was, for the most part an unimpressive and uneventful 15 miles. We shared AirPods and listened to an audio book for most of the day.
A few highlights including the animals we encountered along the way; a horse, two donkeys and an obnoxiously large Goose!
As uneventful as the day was, the town of Carrion was beautifully impressive. Rows of manicured roses and old churches welcomed you in and cafes filled with pilgrims we had met along the way welcomed you to stay for a while (or at least for a night). We did laundry at a local laundromat , bought groceries for tomorrows walk, chatted with friends from all over the world, and ate pizza in our room that faced what looked to be the oldest church in town. Clean, rested, and fed and ready for whatever tomorrow would bring!

Day 17- Carrion de Los Condes to Ledigo

Heading out of town early in the morning, we crossed over the Rio Carrion, where many pilgrims soak their tired feet when entering and exiting Carrion de Los Condes. Today was the first true rainy day where we both had to wear our rain ponchos for the duration of the walk. Windy, misty, chilly rain that made 14 miles feel like 20! Todays weather made us realize just how muddy and miserable it can get during the rainy season! For a few miles, we walked and chatted with John and Sheila, from Illinois until the inevitable pace difference took its toll and they were off! I sometimes feel bad for Todd as I am sure that I am the one slowing us down- but then I remember that it’s not a race! If you go through life too fast, you tend to miss a lot of the beauty and the camino is no different!

A few more miles of walking and then we stopped at a food truck planted on the side of the dirt road. A hot cafe con leche, boots off and feet rubbed (not just me but most of the pilgrims!) and a few snacks to re-energize for the wet walk ahead of us. Today was more about getting from one place to the next while keeping as dry as possible, but not even the dark skies could dampen the comaraderie amongst traveling friends.
We stayed in a private room with shared bathroom tonight, in an albergue as there were no other options and ate a hearty pilgrims meal that included lentil soup and pork ribs with potatoes. Perfect nourishment for a dreary cold day!

Day 18- Ledigos to Sahagún

Today has been the easiest walking day so far. 12 miles of flat and foggy with plenty of cafes along the way for breaks. The landscape has not really changed much over the past few days but we have continued to see old “friends” while meeting new ones. We were gifted a beautiful red cedar cross hand carved by the Australian retired minister who approached us and said he wanted us to have this token. There really are so many warm and wonderful people in this world, and when you slow down to the pace of a walk, you are presented with so many opportunities to meet them.
Another highlight of the day was passing through a hippie town called Moratino. It was a tiny town that felt as if it had been time machined from the 1960’s. But the best part of the day was arriving into Sahagún and realizing that we were officially half way to Santiago de Compostela!
Sahagun, a town that once controlled almost 300 monasteries and. Churches along “the way” is very welcoming and accommodating to the pilgrims of today. They even offer a Half Way certificate to mark the milestone.
Tonight we rest our feet as tomorrow we have the longest walk in weeks… 20 miles before reaching the next town!

Day 19- Sahagún to Reliegos

Last night was so much fun! We watched Germany beat Hungary (soccer) with two German pilgrims at an outdoor cafe in Sahagun!
We knew today would be a long day… 20 miles… so we left Sahagun at 6am to give us time to walk, take breaks, and still make it to Reliegos at a reasonable time. The weatherman was predicting rains in the afternoon so we were hoping to be ahead of that. Good news- no rain! That might be the only good news for me today- as I felt the weight of my twenty pound backpack put pressure on my back and feet today more than most other days. But what does one do on the Camino when their body hurts? Keep walking! We didn’t talk much today. We didn’t stop for long today. We just put one foot in front of the other and kept on going… It amazes me how much the body can endure if the mind is strong!
We arrived into Reliegos and found no one on the streets. We checked into the albergue and found no pilgrims inside. Strange town for sure! Dinner is at 7:00 pm so we will soon see if we are the only ones in town! Tomorrow we head to Leon and will enjoy 2 nights there! This will be our first rest day in 9 days. Excitement isn’t a strong enough word for how I feel about that!

Day 20- Reliegos to Leon

The day began with beautiful sunrise shades of pink and blue, and then a long day of walking alongside busy roads. We had originally planned to break this stage into 2 shorter days, but with the Fiestas de Leon beginning tonight, we decided to go for it! Why not add an extra rest day in Leon? My blisters and swollen ankle would hurt either way and this way we could stay put and really rest our bodies in one city! It’s amazing how easily we justify our decisions After all, we were trading in an albergue with two twin beds and shared shower for a hotel room with a king size bed, private shower and a balcony overlooking Plaza Leon , the cities main plaza. What we hadn’t counted on was that our room was a front row seat to the nightly concerts that would begin at 11pm each night and go until 3 in the morning! So much for rest!
The fiestas filled the plaza, and every narrow street in the city, every evening, with youthful celebrations, loud music, great food and a lot of vino and cerveza! This was the Fiesta of San Juan and San Pedro, and although I know nothing about those saints- I have to assume that they are the patron saints of fun and parties!!

Days 21 and 22- The Fiesta continues!

The city that draws in more pilgrims than tourists is best known for the magnificent Gothic Cathedral, tapas bars, and of course the Museum of Gaudi, the famous architect But for our rest days, It was simply the city of Fiestas and all night music and dancing! I will add that the city greeters who stamped our pilgrim passports when we arrived, were so welcoming and excited to be receiving their first Chilena to the city in the month of June. It made me feel very VIP!

Day 23- Leon to San Martin del Camino

When the concert right outside your room ends at 3am and you begin walking at 6am, your morning is nothing but a foggy blur. And exiting Leon was a long and boring walk through an Industrial part of town. My state of mind and the lack of anything scenic were a match made in heaven (or Leon).
Today’s journey was nothing more than make it from Point A to Point B. And that’s exactly what we did! Very few photos taken, very short conversations had, and very few rest stops along the way (as most businesses were closed (most likely due to massive hangovers from the Fiesta). Our reward came in the shape of a quaint albergue in San Martin del Camino which offered a swimming pool (with icy cold water) and lounge chairs across a manicured lawn. Needless to say, I took a wonderful nap by the pool, sipped on a Cerveza con limón and chatted with the nicest group of young men from the U.S who were good friends doing the Camino together. These four young men had already travelled all over the world and we shared stories of our favorite countries and experiences, our faith, and impressions of our shared journey through Spain. What started out as a really rough morning ended on what has become the norm on the Camino de Santiago- rest, comaraderie, a pilgrims meal, shower and lights out! I love the simplicity of our daily routine!!

Day 24- San Martin del Camino to Astorga

I woke up excited for today’s walk, knowing that when we reached Astorga we would have completed Stage 2 (the mind) of The Camino Frances. The excitement of this milestone was greeted with a return to the beautiful scenic routes that we had experienced at the beginning of this stage on The Meseta. We were finally done with walking alongside busy and noisy roads and once again found ourselves in the storybook beauty of this pilgrimage. One of today’s highlights was a rest area after a few long and hot hours of climbing and descending on dirt roads with uneven stones. A beautiful zen-like oasis with a mandala, a large table filled with fruit, snacks and sweets and a warm and friendly host named Martin. We could take what we needed and donate what we could afford for the generosity .
We ran into the four friends from last night a few times, listened to their singing while walking and smiled at the youthful playfulness they each embodied. It always puts a smile on my face when I get to witness people truly enjoying their journey and sharing such fun and positive energy!

I met an old man who asked me where I was from and then invited me into his little hut to see all of the postcards has received from pilgrims over the years. He was very proud to showcase at least 5 postcards from Chile! Our visit was short, but I will remember to mail him another postcard for his wall of friendship.

After 16 hours of walking, we reached Astorga. This city was founded in 14 BC as a Roman city and by the 11th century had become a major stop on the Camino Frances. Fun fact- Astorga is considered to be the European birthplace of chocolate (the cacao bean was brought to Spain by the famous explorer, Hernan Cortes.) We will only spend one night here, but I feel like this city warrants a return visit one day.

Day 25- Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Today’s journey took us mostly through dirt and gravel roads, with quite a few picturesque villages along the way. One village in particular stood out as inspirational quotes by one of my favorite authors, Paolo Coehlo, hung outside the brick and stone cottages. It’s amazing how such a small gesture given to us by the locals helped to invigorate our souls and energize our pace . About halfway, we encountered Mathias, an Italian man on the side of the dirt path (in the middle of nowhere) offering wax stamps for our pilgrims passports (for a donation). Beautifully unique and varied designs, his loving and affectionate dog, and Mathias’ warm and friendly personality all ensured that this was worth the brief stop! This is my favorite stamp I have received so far.
Shortly after, we walked through a town that could have easily been part of a John Wayne movie! Lined teepees at the top of a hill and a Cowboy bar in the center of town. I half expected to see gun slinging cowboys walk out with spurs on their boots- but alas, I only found tired and sweaty pilgrims stopping in for a cold cerveza before continuing on the way. A few miles down the road, we walked for at least 1/2 mile along side a chicken wire fence covered in twig crosses- made and hung by pilgrims over many years.
When we reached Rabanal del Camino, we walked to the top of the hill to our room at Posada de Gaspar, enjoyed a delicious home-made meal, showered our achy bodies, ice-bathed our swollen feet and slept peacefully until our 4 am wake up alarm- only half ready to tackle the 22 mile day ahead of us.

Day 26- Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada

4am- it’s still dark outside but my alarm blares next to me, and my husband offers tea that he made using hot tap water from the bathroom sink and our only remaining tea bag. So, I have no choice but to open my eyes, sit up in bed, begin my morning stretches and get ready for the day. Today will no doubt be one of our more challenging days. My ankle is tightly wrapped but still sore, my husband’s left tendon is wrapped but swollen and tender We decided to use one of the services, Jaco Trans, to send my back pack ahead to our next stop. I loaded half of my hubbys belongings in mine so that his pack would be lighter today as well. So now, with my smaller day pack and his lighter pack back, we were ready for whatever lay ahead of us. I’ve read so many opinions about whether you should or should t send your pack ahead- and I was afraid people would judge me for it- but today, if it meant less pain, I really didn’t care!
As soon as we stepped onto the path, the tangerine and turquoise skies took my breath away. Sunrise really is the most beautiful time to begin walking. The first two hours of our morning consisted of steady climbing. Long gone were the flat escapes of the Meseta. We could see the rain cloud menacing just over the horizon but had high hopes that we could out pace the rain! Silly mortals!

At the top (the highest point on the Camino) sits a tall thin cross atop stones, trinkets, photos, messages and many other tokens left by pilgrims from around the globe. Two Australian brothers had made the trip at the request of their mother before she passed away. “Reconnect with each other” was her wish. And today, on the anniversary of their mother’s birthday, they climbed to the cross together, laid her ashes, a photo and a stone from her garden at the foot of the cross. They said a prayer, hugged each other and called their dad. It was a beautiful moment that we got to share in. These two aussies have become some of my favorite humans that I have met on the Camino. Greg and Gerry gave their mum exactly what she asked for.
As we started to walk again, down came the rain and on came the ponchos. We would now have to descend on muddy, slippery shale rock! And descend we did; for 4 hours. It stopped raining about 1/2 way down but the descent never stopped challenging us. If I had ever doubted our decision to send the pack ahead, those thoughts were long gone. Thank goodness we were able to do this with a lighter load on our backs. At some point after the ground evened out (temporarily), we came across a woman with a table of fruits for tired pilgrims. She was lively, friendly and she even sang to us all to lighten our moods! Another Camino angel right at the perfect moment.
Most of our fellow pilgrims were stopping at a small town 5 miles short of the city of Ponferrada, but we kept walking (and descending). By the time we arrived, my shirt was soaking wet from sweat, my feet felt like they had been stabbed by a thousand daggers and my hips and knees were battle torn from all of the downhill walking we did today.
Thank goodness we decided to take a rest day in Ponferrada so we could spend two days Ice plunging our feet and legs and taking a break from the hot sun. The city was busy preparing for a large festival which would begin one day too late for us to enjoy: The annual Night of the Templars paying tribute to the Master of the Order of the Templar Knights. I am sad to miss this but excited to continue on our Camino. We are only 9 days away from reaching Santiago de Compostela!

Day 27 – Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bienzo

Today’s walk was not nearly as long as the endless treks we have faced for days- less than 14 miles! A welcome break for sure. It was also not as scenic as other days- In fact, there were many segments of walking along busy roads with fast driving Spaniards. It was overcast today- which was a nice break from the sweat fest we’ve experienced this week. Normally I do not enjoy cloudy days- but when walking for miles it is truly a gift!
We walked through a few interesting and contrasting towns- From mansions and gates to dilapidated houses- all within a few miles of each other.
Todays highlights include properly wrapped feet that mitigated the pain from previous days, the beautiful vineyards we passed as we approached Villanfranca, the very un-American apple pie we enjoyed and mostly the gift of a shorter and easier day that allows us to prepare for tomorrows climb from hell!

Day 28- Villafranca del Bienzo to O’Cebreiro

If someone were to have told me that I would make it all the way up to O’Cebreiro on foot, I would have fallen over laughing! But let’s start at the beginning of the day. Actually is was still dark outside when we left Villafranca. I love walking through European towns before the rooster wake up. There is a mystery to the stillness of empty streets with dimly lit lampposts illuminating the way. By the time the sun had fully risen we were already walking through new towns- some with beautifully designed homes decorated with colorful flowers and others with dilapidated shacks that looked so unsteady that I crossed the street just to keep my distance from what seemed like an inevitable collapse . As much as those houses bothered me, there was one solitary house on the side of a hill with a creepy doll propped at the top attic window looking down in us that won every award for haunted house in Spain! I have never seen a Chucky movie, but I am guessing this doll was related!

It wasn’t long (enough) before we began our climb. 14.5 km of long and steep vertical walking that felt like it would never end. I never actually caught my breath until long after reaching the top. My legs never actually felt completely attached to the rest of my body, and my feet never felt like they would be able to take one more step! This was the longest day for me since we climbed over the Pyrenees on day one! Many people break this day up (and climb) into two parts, some take a horse to the top, and some skip this stage altogether. Somewhere during the climb from hell, we had officially crossed into Galicia, but I never noticed. All I could think about was the counting going on in my head to keep me from quitting. Dog piles into the ground (one), make legs take steps (two), put weight onto the poles (three), gasp for a breath (four), look down not up and ignore the pain (five), take a sip of water (six) and continue climbing and counting all the way to O’Cebreiro! I have to say, I am pretty proud of myself for not taking the horse to the top!
The few times I looked up from my concentrated counting, the views were breathtaking! And the feeling of accomplishment when I saw the little stone street village telling me that we were finally done with the climb was just as breathtaking as the views! Did I mention how proud I am that I didn’t quit?

Day 29- O’Cebreiro to Triacastela

The early morning thick fog engulfed the entire town! It’s a beautiful hobbit haven perched on a very high ridge (we know it’s high based on the almost 15 km of climbing we did to get here!) The town itself is small and welcoming with stone homes and thatched roofs, amazing views across the Galician landscape, and the friendly locals who spoke both Spanish and Galego ( a cross between Portuguese and Spanish . )

This morning we would begin our long descent into the valley below and the early morning thick fog that spread across and over and around the town presented the illusion of walking high above the clouds. It was mysteriously spectacular the entire way down! As we neared the bottom, the lush greens and yellows replaced the dense grays but you could still see remnants of foggy pillows contrasting the valleys vibrancy.
Almost to our destination for the day, we once again found our favorite young pilgrim who rested on the edge, with notepad in hand, admiring the views and jotting down his thoughts about the day. No doubt, his writings will one day become lyrics to an original Camino anthem!
What a beautiful day to be a Pilgrim on the Camino!

Day 30- Triacastela to Sarria

Today began like so many other days on the Camino; uneven roads, muddy paths, beautiful stone churches, lush vegetation, forests, valleys, farmlands, up hills and down hills! The cafes were spread out a little more today so we made sure to stop when we found one- Water refills, café con leche and a bathroom break are those little luxuries when walking all day! I also used those stops to take my shoes off, and massage my feet and legs so that I could make it a few more kilometers with a little less pain. One of todays stops was a surprising book of hippy love and music with a donation based spread of fruits, bread, yogurt, cereal, juices and of course coffee. It was wrong by an old Australian couple who embodied the essence of the era of peace, love and brotherhood.
After 20 km on the Camino path, we arrived to Sarria. This was the beginning stage of large crowds of pilgrims because it marked 100 km to Santiago de Compostela. (The minimum km needed to earn a Compostela certificate. ) We would now have to prepare our minds and souls for a different Camino- to what extent we weren’t sure, but we had heard many stories about the shift in energy from this point on. Perhaps it would be a test to see just how much peace we had truly found and how well we had surrendered to our present moment- accepting each part of the Camino as it presented itself!

Day 31 – Sarria to Portomarín

I learned that more than 1/3 of all pilgrims walking the Camino Frances start their pilgrimage in Sarria. From this point on we would encounter large tour groups, school groups, and locals who were walking during a mini vacation from work. The bicycle traffic also increased exponentially, and we found ourselves at times stuck behind groups of pilgrims who had not learned the etiquette of walking to one side of the path groups of teenagers walking with loud music playing from their Bluetooth speakers, and the constant sounds of bicycle bells letting us know they were coming through. , Today was a challenge to say the least… how to embrace and accept this new way while maintaining the peace we had experienced for over a month! Luckily, we spent most of the day walking with some pilgrims friends we met in O’Cebreiro, Chuck and his 14 year old son Evan. The conversations and laughter helped us all amidst the chaos that had invaded the Camino.
Arriving into Portomarín was visually spectacular, and the brief re-encounters with pilgrims we hadn’t seen in weeks quickly erased any annoyance we had felt from the many speakers that we passed along the way!
In the 1960’s , the construction of the Belesar Reservoir led to the damming of the Miño River which threatened the entire village with submersion. The bold solution was to relocate the entire village to higher ground, which included having to dismantle historic churches stone by stone and rebuild them in the new higher village. If Portomarín could resolve such a potential catastrophe, I am sure I can survive the “new” Camino energy.

Day 32 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei

After the sudden onset of crowded paths yesterday, we decided to leave extra early in the morning, hoping to stay a few steps ahead of the large groups. Don’t get me wrong – I have nothing against the increase in pilgrims; in fact I love to see school groups of teenagers enjoying a bit of the Camino. However, I was on sensory overload yesterday and needed a morning of solitary walking. It turned out to be a great decision for a multitude of reasons. First, it was cool weather for the first few hours (Always a plus!!!). Also, the early morning color variations as the sun was rising was breathtaking. And since we were ahead of the larger groups, I didn’t have to wait in line to use any restroom!

Today was our anniversary (July 4th), and at least for the first part of the day, I didn’t have to share my husband with anyone! We had rented a 3 bedroom apartment in Palas de Rei and would be sharing it with two of our pilgrim friends, Jake and Austin, and we were going to meet a larger group for dinner – so a few hours of couple time was a beautiful gift.

After settling into our apartment, doing laundry in an actual washing machine, and showering, the four of us walked to the highest rated restaurant of the small town called Pasta (yep – they served Italian food). In total, we were 9 pilgrim friends dining together, sharing stories, laughing, eating delicious food and enjoying many many jars of Sangria! And when we returned to the apartment, Austin was ready to present my anniversary git to my husband – Days earlier, I had asked him if he could learn “our” song on his little toy guitar and perhaps sing it to us. He is so talented and has a beautiful singing voice – and I was so excited when he got so excited to do this for us! We sat in the little living room, he took out his little toy guitar that he had purchased on the Camino, and serenaded us. I still smile when I remember Todd’s surprise statement – “Hey, now way, that’s our song!” Happy Anniversary honey!

Day 33 – Palas de Rei to Arzua

Many people told us we were crazy to walk the Camino as a couple. Some said they couldn’t understand how we could voluntarily spend all day and night together, walking together, suffering the Camino pains together without seriously getting on each others nerves. And for 32 days, we proved them all wrong! We loved every minute of it! But today was Day 33. The bad moods and annoyances creeped in (crazy that it happened the day after our wedding anniversary!) and we were no longer in sync. So, we did what smart couples do – We retreated to our corners and ignored each other. How do you do that on the Camino? Walk alone… the entire day!

For the first couple of hours of our intentional solitary journey, I spent too much of it focusing on the annoyances and the negatives. But, all of a sudden, after climbing a steep hill on my own, I realized that today was not a failure – It was in fact a gift. I could spend the entire day focused on trivial marital issues or I could spend it enjoying my own pace, stopping whenever I felt like it to take a photo, have some cafe con leche, and letting the day and it’s beautiful scenery and physical challenges fill my soul. I didn’t need to tend to anyone else’s needs or wants and it became one of my favorite days on the Camino – It was freeing, serene and individually rewarding. I knew my husband was fine and I knew we would reunite in Arzua leaving the days yuck behind us (eventually). I knew we would have our separate stories to share with each other and that we would end up appreciating the good that we have experienced both together and apart. But for now, this was a Marcela day and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute!

I arrived first to our hotel – We had booked a room in a cozy country inn as a gift to each other for our anniversary. It required arriving into Arzua and then taking a 15 minute taxi ride up into the hills to a remote and secluded area just off the Camino Norte path. One problem … I was the one with all of the information regarding our accommodations – Spotty cell service, a language barrier for my husband, and his very painful shin splints that he had acquired on both legs presented the final challenge to finding his way back to me. I am happy to report that he finally arrived, we had a scrumptious dinner prepared and served to us by the amazing Chef, and slept soundly and comfortably in a comfortable bed. Oh, and we eventually made up and as I write this now, I don’t even remember what we were fighting about!

All’s well that ends well! The Camino always provides!

Day 34 – Arzua to A’Rua

I woke up today with the strangest sensation of sadness. My husband and I were happy with each other again, the hotel was amazing and I felt well rested and re-energized. So why the blues? Ahhhh, yes – because we were only 2 days from arriving to Santiago de Compostela and the end of our Camino adventures.

A short taxi ride back into town and we were once again on the Camino. Todd’s shin splints were not improving and he spent most of the day walking in a lot of pain. Leaving A’Rua a bit later than we had anticipated meant we would be walking with many pilgrims. Out of the city, into the forest, through small villages and back to the ringing bells of bicyclists letting you know they were coming through. Back to the Bluetooth speakers playing loud music for the teenage pilgrims, and back to the long lines in the cafes – After a few miles, we met up again with Austin and then with a beautiful young lady, Emily from Belgium. The four of us found our stride together and no one was interested in walking ahead. Austin’s normal pace is a stroll so that he doesn’t miss anything along the way (we are kindred spirits), Emily was nursing some pretty severe blisters, and Todd was limping along with shin splints. I, for a change, felt little to no pain today but was more than happy to keep a leisurely pace. The longer it took to get there, the further away from the end we could remain!

Emily had just spent 15 months traveling the world (mostly Asia and South America), and the Camino was the last part of her adventures before returning to Belgium and back to her responsibilities. Her stories of her travels kept us all engaged for miles upon miles. We stopped at cafes, helped another pilgrim who could barely walk (Austin even gifted his walking poles to him), we re-bandaged Emily’s blisters and distracted Todd from his painful shins. It wasn’t a long day today, but it was definitely a warm one!

In A’Rua, we met up again with Emily and another pilgrim friend Lawrence, shared a bottle of wine, more travel stories, and watched the England vs. Netherlands game. Emily, having graduated from Physical Therapy (or as she called it Fizzio) shared her magical K-Tape with Todd. She taught him how to properly wrap his shins and left him with enough take to get him well beyond our final destination! We didn’t know it then, but it would be the main reason why he made it to Santiago!

I am so grateful to them for helping me not dwell on the inevitable end, but to instead soak in every minute of the journey and continue to be present for the moment.

The end of a Camino is the beginning of another journey!

Each day on this Camino brought such a variety of experiences and emotions – I didn’t know how to capture it all on paper once we arrived to Santiago de Compostela – So I leave you with the notes I took along the way – some of these notes are introspective aha moments and some are comments made by just a few fellow pilgrims of what the Camino meant to them:

1. My husband talks ALOT and I don’t talk enough!
2. People are innately good natured.
3. I am stronger than I give myself credit for.
4. God is in everything, everywhere!!!
5. My mom is always a part of every journey I take.
6. I am getting better at listening.
7. The experiences and lessons from the Camino are the same as in life – just quicker!
8. Reaching the end of 500 miles feels bittersweet, perhaps like reaching near the end of one’s life camino – so grateful for the experiences, blessings, people and love, and tired enough to be OK with the end while also feeling a longing for more … I am not quite finished!
9. I have not changed as much as I have become more comfortable with who I already am, more accepting of others and more grateful for each step of each day.
10. There is something very Buddhist about the Camino – one day and one step at a time without worrying about tomorrow. Living in the present and being fully present for each moment.
11. The simplicity of the Camino routine is gratifying and makes me realize how we overcomplicate the snot out of life.
12. Age is just a number – and the Camino transcends it all!

Emily: The Camino is never as expected but always provides exactly what you need.

Jake: My favorite part is the abundance of meaningful conversations.

Alfred: The most impactful moment was the early morning to O’Cebreiro with no one else around. It took my breath away.

Lawrence: I learned to stop when I was tired, eat when I was hungry, and not run my body into ground. Health first!

Chuck: Walking with my son and meeting so many wonderful people of all ages. Forever a member of Austin’s fan club!