In less than a week, we will begin our final Camino! We started two years ago, walking the Portuguese Route (180 miles), and last year we did the most famous Camino “The French Way” (500 miles). Next week, we will begin the 700 mile walk along the northern coast of Spain, dipping into the Primitivo route, stopping in Santiago de Compostela and continuing on to Finisterre (the true end of the Camino), known as the ends of the earth! Once we complete this journey, we will fly to Amsterdam for a few nights to see some Pilgrims we met last year. I am excited, emotional, nostalgic and very nervous! From everything I have read, this is by far the most challenging of all the routes (and I am not in great shape this time!) From past experience, I anticipate the first week hurting the most at which point something should click – my body parts will no doubt have a conversation with each other: “Oh boy – she is just going to keep doing this every day. Dejavu! I think we should probably start working together so we can help her!”

Camino Norte- Arrival into Spain.

Car to train. Train to the plane. Plane to another plane. Plane to bus. Bus to town. Now begins the walk to hotel! 

Something very interesting in Madrid… when you go through immigration at the airport, they offer a special line for those with connecting flights! That way you don’t get stuck in a super long line and possibly miss your flight. What an incredibly intelligent concept.

The flight from Madrid to San Sebastián was a little over an hour long. Coming into San Sebastian is absolutely beautiful.  We then took a bus from the airport to the city of Donostia, San Sebastián, and walked about a mile or so to the hotel.

We had arrived so early in the morning, around 8:30 am, that it was impossible to check into the hotel, so we had lots of time to kill. We were feeling the pains of being awake for 24 hours since neither of us slept on the plane. What do you do when you cannot check into your hotel, you are exhausted, and there is a beach, right in front of you? You nap by the water, and get very sunburned!

San Sebastián is a happening town filled with surfers. The beach is busy all day, all the way until sunset. The crowds come in waves (no pun intended). I feel as if people come to the beach on their lunch break and then as soon as the workday finishes, the beach crowds once again with families, teenagers, surfers, and beautiful older couples walking hand in hand. It was a sight to see to walk around and watch the youth playing volleyball, gathering in social circles on the beach, walking, talking, and laughing and what really stood out is that I didn’t see anyone on a cell phone!  

San Sebastián is a beautiful town located on the Bay of Biscay and nestled in the mountainous Basque Country. Cobblestone streets lead you through the old town which direct you to an array of Pintxo bars (bite sized peaces of heaven), outdoor cafes and beautiful architecture but the main attraction of this town is most certainly the surfers beach! 

We will spend a few days in San Sebastián to make sure we overcome the travel fatigue, jet lag and 6 hour time difference. And of course, so Todd can go surfing! 

Our second day in San Sebastián, consisted of exploration and lots of walking. There were no waves today, so unfortunately Todd could not go surfing. Instead we ended up walking to Monte Urgull, which is at the opposite end of la Concha Bay. It was a pretty steep climb, but the views made it worth it. San Sebastiáns military history lives on at Monte Urgull. During the 12th century, it was a military fortress, and at the very top, the Sagrado Corazón, (The Sacred Heart) statue stands 12 m high with Christ overlooking the entire city (visible for 4 miles out to sea).  Between climbing to the top, and continuing through the streets of old town, we ended up walking over 5 miles today! 

Our day ended playing paddle boarding at the beach followed by an impressive lightning storm and dinner. 

Tomorrow is our last day of travel recovery before we start walking. Great news… we finally found the Camino markings and we even saw a few pilgrims! 

Day #1 – San Sebastian to Zarautz June 13^th

We walked 3 miles this morning just to get onto the Camino (we were staying on the opposite side of town), and immediately, we had to climb! Within the first 5 miles, I began to question my sanity. Why on earth did I agree to do this again? My backpack felt heavy, and the hills looked intimidating.  It hit me like a ton of bricks, we were embarking on a 600-mile walking journey, I am almost 60 years old, I had gained over 15 lbs. in the last year, and I was out of shape … oh and apparently the Norte and the Primitivo routes are the hardest of all of them. I let it all sink in and then released the fears, laughed out loud and continued putting one foot in front of the other following Todd up another hill.

It didn’t take long to start meeting other pilgrims (the name given to those who walk the Camino). We met two super friendly young guys and then we met Martin from Russia who was struggling even more than me.  

Today’s adventures would take us through 14 miles of varied terrain, incredible ocean views, forests, country roads and into another surfer town named Zarautz. We had heard great things about this town and Todd was hoping to catch a few waves but by the time we checked into our room, found a restaurant that was open for food, dipped our achy feet into the cold Cantabria Sea, we were done for the day.  I had forgotten that the challenge of timing your arrival into each town was crucial to being able to eat at a reasonable time. Restaurants are open in the morning for breakfast, from 1-3pm for lunch and then everything closes until 9pm.  By the time restaurants were opening for dinner, I was getting ready for bed! Thank goodness for grocery stores, baguettes, salami and cheese!

Day # 2  Zarautz to Deba – 14 miles

Today is officially some of the hardest hiking I have ever done! We climbed so much today that I felt like we were ascending to heaven. The climbs were brutal but the second half of the day was downright dangerous. Heavy rains from the previous night and the steep descents on uneven, slick rocks became so slippery that it slowed me down to a turtle’s pace. We didn’t talk to many people today – Makes sense because we were all concentrating on staying alive!  Chris and Jackie, a couple from Scotland climbed with us for a while and distracted me from the pain of the steep hills.

It took us so long to walk the 14 miles because of the terrain, that once we arrived at our room – I didn’t even shower. I didn’t want to go out to eat. I didn’t want to undress. I just wanted to sit on the bed and count my blessings that I made it! Todd went out and grabbed us a pizza (the only place open) while I ate the yogurt that had been in my backpack since the morning. Too much climbing left no time for snacking.

And then …. At around 10pm, I became aggressively ill. I spent the rest of the night over the toilet, vomiting and vomiting and vomiting. Food poisoning? Exhaustion? Both? Maybe eating the yogurt that had sat in my warm pack all day was a bad idea? Maybe the disgusting pizza we forced ourselves to eat (out of hunger) was the culprit? Does it really matter?  All I know is that my head hurt, my stomach hurt, my throat hurt, and I would not be able to walk the next day (or in a couple of hours). Day #3 will be on a bus from Deba to Marquina.

Day #3 – A bus ride from Deba to Marquina-Xemein

We rode 15 miles on the bus to the next town and luckily, I did not get sick again (until later that night). The lady at our little Inn was so sweet that she let us check in early and brought me a bowl of steamed rice and vegetables to my room. Todd had decided that he still wanted to walk today’s route, so he took a taxi back to our starting point today and walked 15 miles back to me. “Please take pictures for me” was my only request and don’t get lost! He did not get lost but he said the hike was long and hard and he did not take any photos.

I slept for most of the afternoon, drank Coke Zero, slowly nibbled on the rice and by the time he made it back (around 8pm) I was starting to feel like a normal human again. Yeah!!!!! I could walk tomorrow!

Day # 4 – Marquina-Xemein to Gernika – 16 miles

I woke up today with a bit of nausea and my energies depleted but it was time to push past and continue walking. I am not sure if today was as long as it felt because I still wasn’t 100% but it was still so rewarding walking into the town of Gernika (as is spelled in Basque).  If the name sounds familiar, you no doubt are familiar with Pablo Picasso and his famous painting of the same name depicting the atrocities of the Spanish Civil War, (Guernica). The bombings destroyed seventy percent of the city and had a huge impact on the outcome of the war. The original painting is housed in Madrid but there is a black and white tile replica wall in Gernika. The graphic painting shows the immense suffering of people and animals as well as the destruction of buildings caused by the massive bombings.

Back to the walking … We met another couple from Scotland today, Ferguson and Allison (who would become one of our favorites of the entire Camino). Walking with them and engaging in conversation helped me forget about the remnants of food poisoning.  Once again, the paths varied from roads, to trails, to farmland, and of course to a lot of climbing and descending. This is the theme of the entire Camino this year. Steep Steep Steep in both directions!

Gernika is a picturesque small town that sits in the valley of the river Oka, which in turn flows into the Gernika estuary. Unesco has declared it a Biosphere Reserve! We stayed in an actual hotel in Gernika and enjoyed the luxuries for one night. It is amazing the things we take for granted at home. A comfortable bed and good pillow to get a good night sleep, a large enough shower to be able to stretch the achy bodies, and a hair dryer which was sometimes used to dry my hair and sometimes used to dry any clothes that I washed that were still damp in the morning.

Since we were only here for a night, the priorities for us were shower, laundry (in the sink) and food. The only place we good find food without waiting until 9pm was a fast-food locale that served Kebabs (known in the USA as Gyros). Having just barely recovered from food poisoning, I took two bites and gave the rest to Todd. I was not about to risk another night of misery!

Day # 5 – Gernika to Bilbao – 19 miles

As tired as I felt waking up, and as much as I dreaded a 19-mile day, the excitement of knowing that we would have an extra night in Bilbao gave me a newfound pep in every one of my steps!  Today’s trek was easier in terms of climbing, meaning not nearly as much as the last few days. It was however still a challenge due to the extra degrees of heat! It was the warmest day we have had so far. I depleted my 2.5-liter water bladder (twice)!

As soon as we reunited with our favorite Scots on the trail, I knew I would be entertained for the duration of the day. Walking mindfully is an important and enjoyable aspect of the Camino but having meaningful conversations with the people you meet along the way is equally an integral part of the journey, especially when the hot sun is beating down on your tired body. It is sometimes those interactions that lift your spirits and give you the strength to keep going. Today, there were many many miles in between services or shade! We were only adding three miles more from yesterday’s walk, but three miles feels like ten when it’s hot and you are carrying 20 pounds on your back!  All good! A rest day in Bilbao would squash any complaining!

Day # 6 – Rest Day in Bilbao

This Basque Country city is often referred to as “The City of the Guggenheim” because once the museum was built here, the city was forever changed. Prestigious architects flocked to Bilbao and combined the feel of old town with the avant-garde of ultra-modern. The museum is the reason why we chose to take a rest day here and it did not disappoint.  The museum itself, without any exhibits, is stunning! But the museum with the diverse showcase of internationally flavored art made for hours of viewing pleasure for us!

The couple we had befriended from Scotland would be ending their journey in Bilbao. It is common for Europeans to do the Camino in stages based on work schedules and vacation days. So, we made dinner reservations (for 9:00 pm) and had one final evening together. Four Scots, One Aussie and two Americans makes for a very fun time! It never ceases to amaze me how quickly bonds and friendships are developed on the Camino. We had barely had a few days of walking together and I knew that we would be friends forever. In fact, for the following month, we chatted on What’s App almost daily. I am certain that soon we will be visiting Ferguson and Allison in their country. Dinner was delicious (the best so far on the Camino), the wine flowed with conversations and laughter, and at the end of the night, as we closed the restaurant, we all embraced and parted ways with teary eyes and a renewed faith in humanity.

Day #7 – Bilbao to Portulaguete 12 miles

There are three different options for leaving Bilbao. Only one appealed to us. We opted to walk on the path that hugs the water rather than have to climb again! For the first few hours, the views were gorgeous. Then … it became an industrialized neighborhood of construction vehicles and building cranes. We walked through the working-class neighborhoods on the outskirts of Bilbao which gave us a more realistic version of what the city was really like. Not all of Bilbao is museums and fancy architecture! The walk was a short one today so we arrived to Portulaguete three hours before check-in. Time to leave our heavy backpacks with the hotel so we could find some lunch and explore the town. We booked a really nice hotel (4 star) for only $45 per night. The albergues in town (shared dorms) cost $20 per person so for only $5 Euro more we got a private room with a view!

The entrance to the city is by far my favorite part of our short stay. There were two options for crossing the river into Portulaguete. We could climb to the top of the hanging bridge and walk across, or we could ride the hanging ferry under the bridge. We rode the hanging ferry! It was the first ferry bridge in the world with a metal structure and is considered one of the most significant constructions of the European Industrial Revolution and of iron architecture.

Day #8 – Portulaguete to Castro Urdiales 16 miles

Trying to beat the heat, we decided to depart as early as possible. We intended to leave by 5:00 am but after a few snoozing alarms, we were finally out the door at 6:30 am. Beating the heat is one of the most important aspects of walking the Camino! (That and making sure you are stocked with water).

The first part of the day was a seemingly never-ending and monotonous bicycle path that was shared by walkers and cyclists. The second part of the day crossed over and passed under the motorways and then finally we started the most beautiful stretch of the day. The paths run along the route of an old mining train and provides exceptional views of the coast.

Today we left the Basque Country (the first autonomous region of Spain that began our journey) and entered Cantabria (another autonomous region of Spain) which brought us back to walking with the gorgeous coastal views of the Cantabrian Sea (and more climbing)!

Day #9 Castro Urdiales to Laredo 20 miles

Our longest trek so far … 20 miles to Laredo! Today’s section ran along the beautiful, wooded paths and eucalyptus forests that ran parallel to the cliffs of the Cantabrian coast. We did not meet anyone new today but instead chose to practice mindful walking while taking in the gorgeous scenery. We have been together for 10 years and have become quite comfortable in just being in each other’s presence without the need for constant conversation.

One of the challenges I had set for myself for this Camino was to try to memorize more scripture. My faith is strong but my ability to memorize is not, so I thought why not use the long days of walking to improve that. Sadly, I am a visual learner and cannot walk and read at the same time so after a few days of failing miserably, I opted to listen to Hallow instead (with air pods). Each week, I chose a different book from the Bible to listen to on the days when the climbing was hard or the miles were long and somedays, I just had deep conversations with God. First to pray for strength to make it through the tough parts and then I would settle into talking about everything with Him. It’s amazing how close I feel to God when I walk the Camino. I imagine it is because the noises of life get very quiet and I am able to connect without distractions.

A long 20 miles today felt shorter than the short 15-mile days. We walked on a beach boardwalk for a while, climbed stairs and walked alongside the ocean atop a beautiful cliff with stunning views and followed the coast all the way into Laredo.

Day #10 – Laredo to Guemes 19 miles

Something that always heals the tired body is the restorative powers of the sea! This morning, we walked alongside the waters of Laredo making our way to a small ferry which would take us to the next part of the Camino. It’s not cheating. It’s the only way to get across and into Santona, where our journey would continue for many miles.

We left our room very early in the morning, as we always do to beat the heat. But today, we left too early. We never checked the ferry schedule and when we finally arrived at the beach area where we would cross, we realized the ferry does not start running until 9:00 am. So, with no restaurants around, we sat on the beach and gazed out into the foggy waters of the morning feeling like we were the only humans left on Earth.  At 8:50 am, a flood of pilgrims descended on the beach to wait for the same ferry. My first thought was, “Oh no. They better not take my place on the small boat; I have been here waiting for hours! Quick, make sure we get there first!” And then I remembered where we were. On the Camino where everyone helps everyone else. Where pilgrims are kind to one another and no one is in a rush.

The entire ferry trip took less than 15 minutes, and we were finally in a town with food options! Breakfast usually consists of Café con Leche and a Croissant and provides us with the needed energy to take on the long miles of walking.

Day #11 – Guemes to Santander 12 miles

I love short days! I love walking on cliffs! I love the beach! I loved everything about today! And I loved the fact that we would have a rest day in Santander, the capital of Cantabria.

Today is what I had always imagined the entire Camino Norte would look like. We walked alongside the edge of a cliff overlooking the Cantabrian Sea and we also walked for miles on sandy beaches. One area was a bit tricky to navigate as the tide was not low and we could not walk around the rocks without being submerged in water.

We also had to take another ferry today (much longer and larger than yesterday’s excursion) in order to cross the Bay of Santander and enter the city.  Since it is only 12 miles between Guemes and Santander, and since there are gorgeously breathtaking trails that run parallel to the ocean, we encountered a plethora of day hikers. If I lived in either of these cities, I would hike this trail daily! At the top of one of the cliffs, we met an Italian who made, hand painted and sold jewelry made of pinecones. It is my favorite purchase of this trip!

Santander is geographically blessed but has had its share of misfortune. The old town burned down in the 1940’s and when they rebuilt poor choices in architecture made the city functional but not charming. Luckily, the location more than makes up for the lack of architectural character.

Day #12 – Rest Day in Santander

We love to stay in nicer hotels on our rest days. The views from our room did not disappoint, and the infinity pool on the roof was luxuriously relaxing. I can’t say we did a whole lot in Santander. We ate well, we rested, we sunbathed, we played cards, and we enjoyed some beautiful sunsets. Well, we did do one very important thing! We went shopping for new shoes (for me!). Last year, I hiked in Merrills, and I loved them. This year, I purchased Columbia’s and immediately got blisters and sore tendons. Luckily, this city was large and had a wonderful store with my favorite shoes! A successful Rest Day!

Day #13 – Santander to Mogro 15 miles

I think today was one of the most visually stunning days on the Camino Norte! (and the longest). It was supposed to be 15 miles but with the coastal route we chose, we easily added another 5 miles to our day! Totally worth it!

We did not see another soul for hours as we walked past the light house and onto the open fields high atop the ocean cliffs and continued on this path for hours! Breathtaking views wherever we looked! Lucky for us, we had purchased some food from the grocery store the day before, our water bladders were full, and we could walk for most of the day without needing to stop for nourishment. The lack of bathrooms on this trail was the only inconvenience but since we have already done two other Camino’s, we were not worried about finding a spot in nature to do what is natural!  

Day #14 – Mogro to Santillana de Mar 14 miles

Today’s walk was pleasant as most days on the Camino are when you aren’t spending all day climbing and descending. There is always climbing on every day, but some days are more enjoyable and less taxing on the body. Knowing that today would be a shorter day than most, I was able to enjoy the scenery, poke fun at Todd, and walk at a comfortable pace.

Arriving at Santillana was like walking back in time to Medieval times. It is a small village with cobblestone streets, medieval architecture, enchanting parks, and festive locals. The village is like its own living museum. There is nothing modern in the entire town!

We stayed in a charming pension with the most comfortable bed I slept on throughout our Camino. The owner is a sweet old lady with a welcoming personality who reminded me of my mother. She even provided us with teas, biscuits and bottles of water in our room.  Dinner was followed by a walk through the town during one of Spain’s many festivals. Today was the Fiesta of San Juan. This marks the official arrival of summer, and the locals celebrate with fireworks, music, dancing and a procession of masked dancers who chase the children and spank them with brooms. These were not light taps on the bottoms. They spared no one and spanked with gusto. (This festival would never be allowed in the U.S.A without an abundance of lawsuits!)

I think I would like to come back and revisit this town when we have more than just one night!

Day #15 – Santillana de Mar to Comillas 14 miles

Following yellow arrows today was easier than previous days. One of the disadvantages of the Camino Norte is the lack of Camino markings. We relied more on our Wise Pilgrim app on the route so far than we had on either of the two previous Caminos (Portuguese and French). But today, as we walked for several miles following roads and highways between villages, the markings were more prevalent. Walking on the roadsides is intimidating, especially coming from the U.S.A. where I would never think to do this. But, for the most part, in Spain, along the Camino, drivers are aware of pedestrians often slow down when they spot a pilgrim.

Today’s walk was a mixture of roads, farmland, and small villages with very beautiful churches. The closer we got to Comillas the more coast we began to enjoy. The hardest part of today was the sun. There wasn’t much shade today so by the time we arrived to our little room, every piece of clothing on my body was drenched!  We did start meeting some more pilgrims and I had a feeling that we would be encountering a few of them again very soon.

Day # 16 Comillas to Unquera  16 miles

Leaving Comillas, we found ourselves walking through winding paths that took us over some spectacular marshy tidal flats, and of course several beaches. Most beaches on the Norte are in small almost hidden Coves,  but occasionally, (like today) we see miles upon miles of sandy spreads with families under sun umbrellas, surfers riding waves, and couples walking along the shore. It was a beautiful way to make an exit up into the hillsides. The rest of the day would be spent climbing through the beautiful countryside. It was another clear-skied day and although it was sunny and warm (in the 70’s), it was never like the hot humid sauna days that we experience in Florida on a daily basis in the summer.

We walked for a while with Boston Dave (a guy named Dave who was originally from Boston but lives in Madrid), and a lovely woman from Germany named Becky. They had met while walking along the Norte and quickly became close friends, even sometimes sharing a private room in a pension (two twin beds) when they needed a break from the Albergue’s.

Unquera is an uneventful town with not much that warrants mention, except for a small Mexican restaurant that served one of the best meals I have had so far! Normally I would be drinking a margarita when eating Mexican food, but while in Spain I have become obsessed with the Radler Cerveza con Limon. It’s the only thing that truly quenches my thirst after a long day of walking!

Day #17 – Unquera to Llanes  16 miles

Over the past week, we had encountered a young couple traveling together on a few occasions. We would chat for a few minutes, but they were much younger and much faster than us (and when I say us, I really mean me!). Paca (from Hawaii) and Karen (from Colombia) met at the University of Michigan while studying for their doctorates. Wickedly smart and still in their twenties!  But today, we spent most of the day together walking through what was probably the coolest part of our journey so far! We also met a few other pilgrims (Alesandro from Italy and Johnathan from the U.S.A.) and formed an adventure tribe all the way into Llanes.

Throughout the day, we had glimpses of the Cantabrian sea, were wowed with the natural beauty that surrounded us, explored the caves, climbed a few rocks, got misted on, witnessed the natural blowholes where the seawater sprayed up through cracks in the rocks, got a bit lost and then found our way again, ascended, descended, walking single file and then spread out, took pictures and videos and all agreed that today was probably the most amazing day of the Norte. And one of the most surprising parts of today… I kept up with the young kids!

Llanes, today’s destination, is a fishing port that combines modern and medieval architecture. But our hotel was set up atop a cliff overlooking a beach cove. Our room had a magnificent view of the ocean and soaking our feet in its waters was only a few stairs away. Sometimes, I feel guilty for not staying in Albergue’s. It is after all a true pilgrim experience. But today there was zero guilt. Only gratitude!

As adventurous and unforgettable as today was, I was a bit nervous with the new pains I was feeling in my left foot. I have had tendonitis in the past, and these pangs of pain were a little too familiar. Time for some “K” tape, ice and elevation.

Day #18 – Llanes to Ribadesella  19 miles

Going to sleep and waking up with our breathtaking views almost made me forget about the new pains creeping through my left foot, until I tried to walk across the room. Ouch! I guess trying to keep up with people less than half my age was not such a good idea. I was not looking forward to today’s long 19 miles ahead of us!

The walk today was beautiful (and painful). I began the first hour in a painful limp wondering how I would ever get to Ribadesella, and then my body surrendered to the Camino. It knows it doesn’t have a choice and for the most part I am able to keep up with Todd. We met up again with Dave and Becky and walked for quite a few miles together sharing stories about our lives, our hopes and dreams, and the reasons why we keep coming back to walk another Camino. This is not their first either.

There are not a lot of options for filling up water or finding food today, but we did manage to find a water fountain to fill our bladders. Most of the small towns we walked through shared the same charm of northern Spain, except for one. I don’t know its name, nor do I want to, but it was straight out of a horror movie. Seemingly abandoned (they were probably all enjoying a siesta), nothing open, no people on the streets, and the strangest stone structure with a disheveled old doll hanging from its roof.  As tired as I was feeling, my pace hastened, and we were through that town in record time!

Nearing the 16 miles of walking today, I was tired and in pain again. Everyone was walking at least 20 steps ahead of me, so I put in my air pods and listened to the Book of Matthew on my Hallow Bible app. It is, I believe, the only thing that got me through the next 3+ miles.

We arrived at Ribadesella, showered, did some laundry and joined Dave and Becky for a seafood dinner by the pier. Zamburinas are my favorite! They are sea scallops served whole in the shell with butter and garlic. After dinner, we walked a few blocks for some gelato and then back to our room where I elevated, lathered my foot in Voltaren and fell quickly asleep, crossing my fingers and saying my prayers for my foot to heal itself!

Day #19 – Ribadesella to Colunga  13 miles

Today was not a long walk, but it was the most painful of the days so far. The tendonitis felt like a sharp knife stabbing the top of my foot with each step taken.  And to make matters more frustrating, it appears that all restaurants between Ribadesella and Colunga decided that Tuesday was a good day to declare a rest day and stay closed. The running joke all day was, “maybe the next town?”

However, even hunger pangs and pain did not take away from the visual beauty of todays miles.  Ocean views for a part of the day, canopied forests for another and open farmland with colorful wildflowers for the rest.  We continued walking with Dave and Becky for most of the day and as usual, conversations flowed freely and meaningfully.

Our little room in Colunga was very basic and I was very tired. Todd went to a little grocery store and came back with the fixings for some filling sandwiches so that I could lay with my feet up against the wall in hopes of reducing some of the swelling. We played some cards on the bed, ate our sandwiches and Todd went out to explore a bit while I fell asleep early. It is amazing how much walking in pain depletes every ounce of my energy!

Day #20 – Colunga to Villaciosa  12 miles

Today marks the day we will officially merge with the Camino Primitivo from the Camino Norte once we get to Villaciosa. It’s a short walk but an exciting one.

The terrain changed drastically as we exchanged the ocean for forests. It was incredibly green everywhere we walked today and there weren’t many hills to climb up (or down). This was a welcome surprise to my favorite swollen feet.

We met a young woman who was saying goodbye to friends as she would be the only one changing over to the Primitivo. They embraced and cried as they said their goodbye. It was a very emotional encounter, so I assumed they were lifelong close friends or family. We learned that they had only met a week ago.

Leaving the Norte meant we would no longer run into many friends that we had made as most would continue the Camino Norte all the way to Santiago. We had convinced Karen and Paca, our young geniuses from Michigan, to switch over to the Primitivo so I knew we would be meeting up with them again at some point. These two are younger than our own kids, and yet at no time did we feel the age difference. The Camino is an equalizer of all things. Well, the one difference I felt was my physical abilities. But that is just me. Todd kept up with all the young folk just fine!  I was excited to meet new pilgrims on our new path and I was also excited to explore new terrain, but I was getting more and more concerned about the pains in my feet. One foot is manageable, just compensate more with the other side of your body, but both feet would soon become an issue.

Day #21 Villaciosa to Pola de Siero  16 miles

Although we were not yet officially on the Camino Primitivo (it begins tomorrow in Oviedo), we were no longer on the Camino Norte either. We were merging (for two days)!

Today was a relatively easy day of walking (only a few climbs) but my tendonitis was getting worse. I was very relieved to know that after today, we would get to enjoy two nights in Oviedo.  But for today, one foot in front of the other all the way into Pola de Siero. I didn’t take many photos today but enjoyed all of the animals just the same. So many chickens, kittens and dogs in every little town.

Pola is a small town that lies on the Nora River and is most known for meat packing and brewing. Todd walked around the town and explored a bit while I once again lay on the bed with my feet up against the wall.  This seems to be the theme for this Camino. Once you start having foot issues, whether from blisters, sprains or tendonitis, much of your day is spent trying to navigate around the pain so that it does not end your Camino. We had been walking for three weeks at this point, and I was not ready to stop.

Day #22 – Pola de Siero to Oviedo  12 miles

Today is our wedding anniversary! This makes three years in a row that we have been walking a Camino on our anniversary! Maybe we should make this a yearly thing!

It was not a long day of walking, the weather was picture perfect, and we were excited about getting a rest day in Oviedo! Once again, I didn’t take a lot of pictures today as I spent most of the time concentrating on how much pressure I would be able to place on each foot while trying to keep a normal pace of walking. Thank goodness for walking poles!

We did meet an awesome young lady named Yoki from Germany. We connected instantly, walked and talked about our lives, stopped and had lunch together and she and I shared an entire bottle of Sidra. If you know… you know!  She was to end her Camino today and take a bus to Madrid to meet up with an old boyfriend (and his new girlfriend)! 

The last few miles of the walk are a bit of a blur. Sidra is not for the faint of heart! And although I don’t recommend doing this, I will admit that the combination of the Ibuprofen and the Sidra made me forget about the pain in my feet for quite a few miles!

When we arrived into Oviedo, we checked into a really nice hotel with a Spa and I booked two “anniversary” massages for tomorrow! We found an amazing restaurant very close to the hotel and had a beautiful anniversary dinner. It has been an awesome day!

P.S. I am including a picture of our wedding (on the beach) in honor of our anniversary. You can easily tell which one it is … we look a lot younger!

Day #23 – Rest Day in Oviedo

Oviedo is the Capital of Asturias (another autonomous region in Spain). This is our third region we have been through. We started in Basque, then to Cantabria,  and then to Asturia. In a few days, we will be entering the fourth and final region, Galicia. They each have their own unique languages (in addition to Spanish), signature dishes and drinks and pride in their autonomy.

Today, we met up with Paca and Karen and treated them to lunch. They too had splurged and were staying in a hotel rather than an Albergue and we celebrated how clean and put together we all looked and felt just from a night of good sleep, long hot showers, hotel shampoo and blow dryers! It’s the little things in life that get a pilgrim super excited!

Our massages were booked for 7pm (Spain does everything later than the rest of the world) so we were able to enjoy a long lunch, nap, and dip in the hotel spa pool. Since our hotel room had a bathtub, I was also able to soak my feet in exceptionally cold water (more than once!) in hopes of repairing any damage from all the walking. The massages were relaxing, even though we told them to avoid our feet at all cost! And by the time our heads hit the pillow, we felt rejuvenated and ready to tackle the official first day on the Camino Primitivo.

Day #24 – Oviedo to Grado  16 miles

Today marked the official first day on the Camino Primitivo. We very quickly realized that this would not be a stroll in the park as very early on we were faced with some monumental climbing! Those who chose the Primitivo were beginning their Camino journey today. They were fresh and excited, and had no idea what was in store, but we knew! We had been walking for over three weeks. We had already faced, struggled through and survived some insane terrain so I am sure the looks on our faces probably scared some of the newbies we met today! Karen and Paca walked with us for a part of the day, and they knew! They too had started on the Camino Norte and they too knew the truths that we did. They say knowledge is power, but as I looked upon the fresh and eager faces of the newer pilgrims, I wished for less knowledge and more enthusiasm! It didn’t help that both my feet were getting more and more swollen each day, and now my right knee was starting to twinge. (probably from overcompensating).

Today was filled with alternating dirt and asphalt roads. We had left the coast so there were no more ocean views to distract, and for some part of the day we navigated as close to the nonexistent shoulders on very busy roads.  As a contrast, we also followed dirt paths, farmlands and beautiful rivers.  We experienced our first “rain”, really a sprinkle, about halfway through the day, which was a welcomed reprieve of the hot sun. I think Todd, as a surfer, was missing the ocean views, but I loved the diversity! We live in Florida so being able to walk through fields of wildflowers next to farm animals is not something we get to enjoy back home.  

Grado, our destination for today, is a small but beautiful and happening town. Our little room was in the heart of it all and we were happy to have so many different options for dinner. We also were ecstatic to find a self-service laundry very close by. Ahhh, the smell of clothes laundered in a machine rather than a bathroom sink! It’s the little pleasures of life!  Today was not the first town we were able to do this in, but the gratitude never diminishes!

Day #25 Grado to Salas – 14 miles

Today was a scenic and challenging day that gave us luscious green meadows, mountains and small and picturesque villages as well as challenging and sometimes painful steep climbs. It’s never the climbs that torture me. It’s knowing that once we reach the top of the climb the down will be just as steep!

One of the demanding ascents is called the “Alto de la Cobertoria”, and the panoramic views of the Camino from the top are stunning!  There was a peace that encompassed our walk today that probably stemmed from the lack of any traffic or city noises. It was visually and auditorily attractive, and other than the continued pains in my feet and knee, one of my favorite days so far.  There are so many cats on the Camino Primitivo so Todd decided today that he will purchase some good cat treats tomorrow so he can make new (furry) friends all the way into Santiago!  The temperature was ideal, high 60’s, a bit overcast and no rain. The perfect hiking weather!

We arrived into Salas, and then had to walk a few more miles to get to our accommodations for the night. By the time we walked in, I was no longer walking. I was limping and cringing! We again opted for a private room, but I will say that the Albergue part of Casa Suenos looked very inviting! If I had to share a room for 20+ other pilgrims, this would be the place to do it in! Since we were far removed from the town, we ate in the dining room and had an incredible meal! A cream of vegetable followed by homemade meatballs, and accompanied (for me) by a Radler, Cerveza de Limon. 

By the time night arrived, I could barely stand the pain in both feet and right knee. I couldn’t get to the bathroom (from the bed) without holding onto the walls and furniture. I couldn’t get comfortable anywhere and began wondering if I would end up at the local clinic begging for pain pills and steroids. I was miserable. I watched the sun come up and knew that I would have to take a bus to the next town.

Day #26 – Salas to Tineo  13 miles (via bus)

Todd was so worried about me, he decided he would go with me on a bus instead of walking. Thank goodness, since I didn’t know how I was going to make it into town to catch a bus! One tiny step at a time is all I could do and even those tiny steps were pretty pathetic!

Deciding to take a bus is always a hard thing to accept on the Camino. It represents a sort of failure. A thought that you aren’t worthy of being a pilgrim. An imposter syndrome sickness. But truth be told, for me, today, it meant that I would not do more damage to an already injured body. I think it was harder on Todd. He was feeling physically great and would have loved to continue walking today. He also loves me enough to not want to abandon me in my time of weakness. I didn’t feel like a failure, but I did feel guilty for taking away his day.  I think if you walk the Camino alone, it is easier to reconcile days like this. You only have yourself to think about. You do what makes sense for you. But my pain and inability to walk was also affecting my husband, and it sucked!

I took a few pictures on the bus, and when we arrived to our next stop I limped to our room where I would lay in the bed with knee wrap, k-tape and bags of ice crossing my fingers and saying a prayer that I would be OK to walk the next day.  

Day #27 – Tineo to Pola de Allande 14 miles (on a bus)

Nope! I definitely was not walking today. But I was also not about to deprive Todd of another day just to babysit me. I decided to take the bus again today and meet him at the next town.  He was feeling awesome, and I really did not want to ruin his own Camino. We do this together, but if you have walked you know that everybody has their unique Camino no matter how many people you walk with. Mine today would consist of pain management, pity avoidance, and navigation skills to find where to find a bus!  Todd’s journey today would consist of steep climbs and descents and a beautiful mountainous landscape. We would regroup in Pola de Allande and swap stories of our day. 

I ended up meeting quite a few pilgrims on the bus! Apparently, I am not the only one suffering from tendinitis. This made me sad for them but secretly relieved to know that others were finding this journey as physically taxing as I was. And the beauty of the Camino is that when you meet other pilgrims, whether it is while walking or while riding a bus, the conversation flows just as easily and meaningfully!

Day #28 – Pola de Allande to La Mesa – 14 miles (by Taxi)

Now I am getting worried. I wonder if my Camino will not continue. I wonder if I have done permanent damage to my feet and knee. I wonder if Todd is going to be frustrated because he is ready to continue and I can’t walk (not even across the room). I am so in my head about all of the negatives of what is happening right now and how I feel like I should suck it up and get moving. I need to get out of these thoughts. One of the wonderful things about getting older is the ability to let the feelings enter, feel them, and then release them. It sometimes takes a while, especially when the feelings are accompanied by physical pain, but after a few hours of my pity party, I release and again enjoy the beauty of my surroundings. And oh my my my … those surroundings!

There was only one bus a day from Pola de Allande and it didn’t leave until the evening so I decided to take a taxi instead. It’s only 14 miles away so I knew I would arrive way before the check in time. The taxi driver and I talked the whole way there. He shared stories about his home and his fear that the younger generation was not staying, marrying and having kids in order to keep their town growing and thriving. They were moving away. They were deciding not to have children. This troubled him immensely and he wondered what would become of his little town over the next decade.  Before meeting this man, I would have never thought about the repercussions of a generation of people leaving their homes and towns. As a high school teacher in the U.S., I was always encouraging kids to go experience the world, leave their homes and comfort zones and grow. I wonder if I would have done the same if I had taught in Pola de Allande?

La Casa de Araceli is a beautiful Bed and Breakfast style Inn in La Mesa. It sits atop a hill overlooking the cow pasture and the town and the lady who runs the place, Araceli, is the hardest working woman I have met. She is the housekeeper, the front desk receptionist, the bartender, the cook and the server. A one woman show, whose show runs more smoothly than most 5-star hotels I have stayed in.  

When Todd finally arrived, after his 14-mile trek, we enjoyed a scrumptious homecooked meal and played some cards while I continued to elevate and ice. By the end of the evening, I was actually starting to feel like I might be able to walk again.

Day #29 – La Mesa to Grandas de Salime  12 miles

Yay!!! I can walk again! We started our walk today in dense, mystical fog. It was a perfect illustration of how I was feeling about the day ahead. Dense fear of how my body would handle the hills, and a mystical strength that told me I would make it! Spoiler alert – I made it but …

The morning started slow. A combination of a limp and a walk but with each climb mastered, I felt stronger and victorious! Todd was great (and patient) since our pace today would be much slower than his solo pace of the last few days. The scenery was spectacular. We climbed for quite a while, and I was beginning to get nervous. I knew that the steeper the climb the steeper the descent, but I hadn’t taken into consideration the length of the descent in terms of mileage. Once we reached the top, the views of the Navia River, and eventually the Salime Reservoir were postcard worthy.  We met a super nice young guy (whose name I can’t remember) walking the Camino with his dog. This dog probably should not have been doing this journey as it had short little legs and looked like he was miserable.  When he looked like he couldn’t walk any further, his human would put him on his shoulders and around his neck and carry him, along with his heavy backpack. That is pure love!

For the first half of the day, I felt strong. I was happy that I had decided to walk. I found my groove and loved the visual stimulus. And then began the long and painful descent through open fields at first, and then into a lush and treacherous forest.  It was in this descent that I realized just how bad my knee was. My feet hurt but I could deal with the pain. The stabbing in my knee with every step heading down was excruciating. I rarely cry from pain, but today I sobbed. I had visions of having to be helicopter rescued, as there was no way a car or ambulance would be able to get to me. I had made it through the first half of the descent with some deep breaths and a lot of wincing, but all of a sudden…. The pain was unbearable. Todd, my hero, grabbed my backpack hoping that walking without the extra weight would help. It did … some. The beauty of today vanished under my salty tears and all I could do was repeat “I can do all things through Christ who gives me strength” all the way to the bottom.  Once we hit flat surfaces, I was able to handle the pain again. I relieved Todd from my backpack and knew that I would make it the rest of the way. Luckily, there was a café close by where we could sit for a while, eat, drink, regain some strength, and of course elevate and ice. It was in this café where we met and talked with a grandpa, Vincent walking with his teenage grandson, Niam. They were from the Netherlands and were having an amazing time together. It made me wonder if maybe one day I might do the Camino with one of my grandkids. The idea made me smile.

By the time we reached our accommodations, I had nothing left. No strength, no optimism, no joy, no tolerance. Just pain. I made the decision that I would take a bus a few towns ahead and wait for Todd. I simply could not imagine bouncing from town to town to wait for him and there was no way I was going to walk the next few days as I had read that one of them was called “the leg breaker”. I was already broken!  He offered to go with me. He offered to quit the Camino and go somewhere that would allow me to enjoy our time, but I was not ready to quit. I was not ready for him to quit. I still had hopes that after a few days, I would be able to continue and that one day I would come back to walk the segments I was missing. For now, all I could think of was a bus ride to a hotel with room service that would allow me to not walk anywhere for any reason for a couple of days! I was going to take a bus to Lugo!

Day # 30 – Grandas de Salime to A Fonsegrada 16 miles

Todd walked solo today. He is not the best at taking photos, but he is amazing at hiking! I took the bus to Lugo today, and once again rode with many pilgrims who were either bussing ahead to rest an injury or calling it quits because of an injury.  Walking to the bus was painful, riding the bus was enjoyable, and walking to the hotel in Lugo was out of the question so I took a taxi! I arrived so early that I spent 4 hours in the hotel lobby reading a book while waiting for my room to be ready.  The hotel was beautiful and modern and centrally located but all I cared about was that it had room service. Or at least the ability to use the equivalent to Uber Eats or Door Dash! I was not going to leave my room until Todd arrived!

Day # 31 – A Fonsegrada to O’Cadavo Baleira  15 miles

Todd continued to walk solo. He checked in with me throughout the day and said he was meeting a lot of wonderful pilgrims along the way. I told him I was having my own little pity party, posting about it on social media, watching The Chosen (my favorite show), listening to scripture, and journaling. Oh yeah and having my food delivered to my room so that all I had to do was hobble to the door and back to the bed!

Day #32– O’Cadavo Baleira to Lugo

By the time Todd arrived to Lugo, my spirits were renewed. I had a short Woe is Me solo party, and then messages from my son and some strangers on the Camino Facebook pages made me realize a few things. First, no matter what was happening, this was a pilgrimage, and this was my Camino, maybe how it was always intended to be. Second, I was still in Spain having an adventure! And third, that perhaps this was the Camino teaching me that rather than trying to conquer it, I should surrender to it.  So, I surrendered, and I instantly felt gratitude for the blessing of being able to embark on such a journey to begin with.

Once Todd arrived, he let me know that some friends we had made on earlier days, Ania from Poland and her boyfriend, Brian from Kentucky were staying at the same hotel and asking to have dinner with us. We would spend two nights together in Lugo before deciding if it was feasible for me to continue. So, I limped to an Orthopedic store and bought a real knee brace, re-taped my feet with K-tape and went to dinner with our Pilgrim friends.  Why hadn’t I purchased a knee brace earlier? This was a miracle! No Pain! I couldn’t walk fast, but I wasn’t crippled anymore. Maybe I will be able to finish the Camino after all!

Side note – Lugo is a city that is completed surrounded by Roman Walls. The best part of the city is within these walls. Cobblestone streets, cafes, and stores amidst beautiful parks and plazas. There is so much history within these Roman walls. The outskirts of the city (the other side of the Roman Wall) is mostly tall concrete apartment buildings with little to no tourism.

Day #32 – Lugo to Ferreira 13 miles

I made a very adult decision today after I looked at the map of what we would encounter on today’s walk. It was going to be a short but very steep day, and I had less than a day of feeling stronger. So today would be my last day of rest in hopes that I would then be able to continue the remaining 8 days of walking all the way to Finisterre. I took a taxi to Ferreira so that I could sleep in and not have to go anywhere until checkout time (12:00pm). Todd would meet me in Ferreira.

He left at the crack of dawn in order to beat the heat, so by the time I arrived to our little pension, he was already there, sitting in the shade and drinking a Coke Zero. What is funny about that is at home he never drinks sodas. But on the Camino, there is something about a Coke (no sugar) that helps you recover from all the walking. He doesn’t drink alcohol, so where I might go for the Lemon Beer, he goes for the soda. They both work!

Ferreira is in the middle of nowhere. There is no town. It is as rural as you can get. Luckily the place where we stayed served a delicious dinner and the people that ran the place were super friendly. Also, Todd had made a friend from Germany named Juergen. He was a bit older than us, but his English was way better than our German. We had dinner with him, and then he introduced us to “Cabo”. A ridiculously fun card game! So, we sat outside, under the stars, played cards, drank a bottle of wine (Juergen and I) and had those meaningful conversations that I love. Juergen’s wife had wanted to walk the Camino for many years, but he had always refused. Last year, he walked for the first time, alone. His wife had passed away and he needed to do the one thing she had always wanted to do. Now, he walks again to feel closer to her, and as a way to take the time and space needed to feel the grief of losing his best friend.  Their wedding anniversary would be in a few days, so I asked him to share some of his fondest memories about his wife. We laughed and cried together as he made those memories come to life in this little town in Spain. And we learned a very fun new card game.

I went to sleep that night feeling grateful for having made a new friend and grateful that I have a husband who loves the same kinds of adventure that I do. We were doing this as a couple, and I could see in Juergen’s sadness that he wished he had done the same with his wife.

Day #33 – Ferreira to Melide  17 miles

I may have picked a long day to begin walking but the excitement of not having to take public transportation eased my nerves! I am being smart today though and have decided to send my backpack ahead. For today, I will just walk with a mini day pack so I can carry my water and essentials. There is such a controversy surrounding the debate of whether to carry your pack or not. I have met a handful of pilgrims who never carry their own backpack. They use a service for the entire Camino. I never judge them. There are some people, like me today, who send their pack ahead if they have experienced an injury or just need a break. I never judge them. And there are those who will carry their own pack no matter what. I never judge them. Everyone’s journey is their own. Everyone’s threshold for pain is unique. I feel proud that I carry my weighted backpack and I feel just as proud today that I am sending it ahead.  The added benefit is that my husband was able to put some of his things into my pack and lighten his load as well!

The walk today was beautiful and much more manageable than the previous weeks and it would be our last day on the Primitivo. Once we arrive to Melide we are officially on the French Camino and close enough to Santiago that the path will become very busy with tour groups and school groups. But for today, we enjoyed a peaceful and picturesque walk with manageable pain levels. My pace was slow, and most pilgrims quickly passed us, but I was OK with that. A wave, a smile and a “Buen Camino” and we were once again walking alone.

Day #34 – Melide to Arzua  11  miles

It is so crazy to me to be on the French Camino once again! And to be in Galicia! So many memories come flooding back to me from last year’s walk.  When we walked within the last 100 km to Santiago last year, the Camino vibe completely changed.  The moments of solitude and quiet reflection vanished quickly.

In order to qualify for the Compostela Certificate in Santiago, you must prove that you walked at least 100 km. It is the minimum. Many people, for many different reasons, walk only this segment of the Camino. This is also the part of the Camino where “pilgrims” are dropped off in bus loads and school groups crowd the paths with their young spirited (and loud) enthusiasm and Bluetooth speakers. There are times of the year when it is less crowded, but we were walking in peak season. Schools were out for the summer! This portion of the Camino is as widely debated  among pilgrims, in the same way as the debate gets heated about whether it’s better to walk  with your backpack or send it ahead. And as is debated about whether it’s a true pilgrimage if you don’t sleep in Albergue’s! I don’t think there is a right or wrong answer. There is only preference and tolerance levels.

Last year, we made a friend named Lawrence who was very annoyed with the droves of people walking in large, loud groups, and not carrying their backpacks.  He said they were not “pilgrims” and instead he referred to them as “princesses”.  I thought that it was funny so I posted it on social media. This caused a very heated debate! Some were irate with me for diminishing the rights of anyone who wanted to walk however they wanted to walk. Others chimed in saying that the last 100 km ruined their Camino. There was no middle ground in the hundreds of comments. I still think Lawrence’s comment was funny! I also don’t mind the larger crowds beginning their walk to Santiago. I get up earlier in the morning (teenagers hate waking up early!) to avoid the crowds, and I greet them all just the same when I encounter them… “Buen Camino”. Now, if this were the reality of the entire Camino, I doubt I would have walked a second and third time! It is certainly not my favorite part of my journey but isn’t that a great representation of life itself. It’s the times where everything isn’t just how you imagined it that you have a choice in how to react. Can you still find your inner joy? Can you accept others even if their walk is different from yours?

Back to today …As we got closer to Arzua, the landscape began to look very familiar. There were places I remember taking pictures of last year. There were cafes that I remember stopping for a break from last year. The familiarity brought me a lot of comfort. I knew that we would soon be in Santiago de Compostela again! And the best news for me today, was that I was not in a lot of pain.

Day #35 – Arzua to O’Pedrouzo  12 miles

The eucalyptus trees covered the paths for most of the day today. Stunning! The walk was one of the least physically demanding days so far but as we got closer to Santiago (we arrive tomorrow), I noticed that both Todd and I retreated inwardly. Even through the large boisterous groups of students passing us along the way, we managed to spend most of the day in self-reflection. On one hand, I was ready to arrive to Santiago. I knew we would have a rest day before continuing to Finisterre. I knew that the arrival to Santiago meant that I had not quit. I remembered from the previous two years the surreal feeling of standing in the plaza looking up at the Cathedral amidst so many other pilgrims who were on their own journeys. But I also knew that I was not ready to get there. Had I truly maximized this experience? Had I achieved enough in almost 600 miles of walking? Had I learned enough about myself? Had I experienced enough epiphanies and moments of true surrender?  So many questions flowed through today and yet my mind went blank when I tried to find the answers.  What is interesting for me is that although I couldn’t answer my self-imposed questions, I was not feeling any anxiety about it. This too was part of my Camino. Sometimes the answers that I end up receiving have nothing to do with the questions that I start out asking. I will sit and reflect on this more at the end of the Camino.

As we got closer to O’Pedrouzo, we ended up walking for a bit with two American ladies. An aunt and her niece had broken off from their larger group and were enjoying meeting and talking with strangers. (Although there really is no such thing as a stranger on the Camino)! I don’t remember their names, or much of their story but I do remember how excited they were feeling about the memories they were making together.

O’Pedrouzo is not exactly right off the Camino. You have to walk a few miles off the path to get into the town, but it was a great resting spot for tonight so that tomorrow we could take our time in getting to Santiago. Some people continue all the way today (that makes for a 20+ mile day) and just as many people break it up into two days. The town was filled with pilgrims (and princesses) and I am pretty sure that without the Camino, O’Pedrouzo would not enjoy the same amount of success. The restaurants were almost soley filled with pilgrims, and the albergues, hotels and pensiones were the same. I have to imagine that the businesses in most towns along the Camino enjoy the surge of “tourism” because I do believe, after having met so many pilgrims, that this kind of tourism is much friendlier and respectful than the tourism that large cities usually experience. Pilgrims are hungry to immerse themselves in the culture, appreciative of kind gestures and predominantly friendly and respectful.  

Day #36 – O’Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela  12 miles

I woke up this morning in disbelief. We would actually arrive into Santiago de Compostela today, for the third time!  The first Camino we walked (the Portugues Way) was my idea. The second Camino (The French Way) was a joint idea. And now we would finish our third Camino (The Norte and Primitivo). This one was all Todd! He knew after the first week on the French Camino that we would do this.

Today, the walk was busy with pilgrims, full cafes, long bathroom lines, and a lot of reminiscing about last year’s walk. We were excited about arriving into Santiago but it felt different this time for a few reasons. First, I was injured and in a lot of pain. My  body  had been challenged to its breaking point. Last year, I entered Santiago strong. Second, Todd was stronger than he has been in over a decade. Last year, he limped into Santiago in a lot of pain. When we got home from the French Camino he had a hip replacement surgery. And third, we were not finishing our journey in Santiago like we had done both previous years. This time we would be continuing for another 4 days to arrive into Finisterre (what some say is the true finish of the Camino).

Walking into the plaza and looking up at the cathedral was just as amazing and breathtaking as the first two times. Watching pilgrims from all over the world, celebrate the end of their Caminos with hugs, photos and pure excitement was so much fun to watch. And knowing that we would be meeting up with Juergen again to spend one last evening sharing stories, wine and Cabo felt like the perfect way to celebrate having arrived again.

Day #37 – Rest Day in Santiago de Compostela

We woke up early today to beat the lines at the Compostela office. We had to show them our passport filled with Camino Stamps all the way from San Sebastian in order to get the Certificate of Compostela. It is a document in Latin that has our name and the Camino we completed with mileage. We now have three of these! Not everyone who walks the Camino decides to get this, but I love my Compostela’s, and I keep them with my Camino Passports so that when I feel tired, down or just plain old, I can look at them and realize how strong I actually am! The photographs I take along the way are great for walking down memory lane, but the Certificate is like a final stamp on my journey that says, “Way to go girl! You did it!”

We spent our final day in Santiago watching the new arrival of pilgrims entering the plaza and celebrating the end of their Camino! We washed all of our clothes at a laundry mat, bought a few patches to add to our backpacks, ate way too much, and finished strong with tattoos! Todd got a Camino Shell tattooed on his arm, and I did the Camino Shell with a “Buen Camino” on my arm.

There was nothing left to do. We did it (again)! But we were not quite finished!

Day #38 – Santiago de Compostela to Negreira  14 miles

It felt surreal this morning as we walked across the Compostela Cathedral Plaza with no soul around. The plaza was empty. The Pilgrims who arrived yesterday were sleeping and the pilgrims who would arrive today were just beginning their walk for the day.

We climbed for quite a while in order to leave the city. When we got to the top, we were able to get a faraway glimpse of the same Cathedral that marked our pilgrimage. It was a great feeling, and I was excited to continue our journey. The pains were making a comeback, and I could feel the twinges of a limp, but I was enjoying the walk too much to pay attention. 

Once we left the outskirts of Santiago, we were alone again. Gone were the large school groups and Bluetooth speaker-filled music. Gone were also the plethora of cafes and bathrooms. In fact, we would walk for almost 10 miles today before we found a small café to take a break.  

Day #39 – Negreira to Olveira  21 miles

Knowing that today would be a long 21 miles and a lot of climbing and feeling the too- familiar twinges in my feet and knee, I decided to take a bus to the next town. I really wanted to be able to walk into Finisterre at the end of this just like I had walked into Santiago, and I also knew that if I didn’t listen to my body, I would have regrets. Such growth!  So, I told Todd, pack a lot of your things in my backpack so you have a light load today. I can handle the extra weight to the bus. Famous last words!

Getting on the bus was easy.  The ride on the bus was pleasant. Once again, I met quite a few pilgrims who had decided to skip the 21 mile climb today.  The challenge arrived when I got off the bus in Oliveira. I put the address to our accommodations in Google Maps, fastened the very heavy backpack to my body and began walking. The GPS said it would be a ten-minute walk.  This was a tiny town, with mini ranch styles home filled with chickens, cows, and donkeys.  I walked for ten minutes, the GPS said “arrived” but there was nothing to arrive to. In fact, it was just the turn off back onto the Camino to continue heading to Finisterre. So, I walked back into the town on a different road and found an Albergue (not mine) with a café. I asked the lady if she could help me find our Albergue, showed her on my phone, and she said “Oh dear, that is one stop behind us. It is about 8 km away.” That was not the answer I was expecting! So, I decided to have a café and croissant (which I shared with an adorable little cat) and muster up the strength to continue walking with my backpack which now weighed over 25 pounds, on my pain ridden and swollen feet and knees.  The funniest part about today (yes things can be funny even when they are not going your way) was that I was now walking in the opposite direction of all of the pilgrims I ran into. They all gave me funny looks but said “Buen Camino” anyway. Maybe they thought I was walking back to Santiago. Some pilgrims walk to Finisterre and then return to Santiago on foot.

By the time I arrived at our Albergue (and yes we were staying in a private room), I was exhausted, sore, and very sweaty, It was the hottest day so far.  I sat in the shade at a table, had some lunch, drank a few Cerveza con Limon, and journaled. I met an American woman who was walking the Camino solo, and we exchanged our stories and enjoyed each other’s company for over an hour. We never even told each other our names. We knew we would never see each other again but it didn’t matter. Our conversation was deep, meaningful and helped pass the time while I waited for Todd to appear. The Camino would pass right in front of our Albergue so he would be easy to spot!

He arrived with a few pilgrims he had met along the way, we showered, ate, played some Cabo and collapsed on the bed. He got a good laugh at the fact that my easy day with extra weight turned into almost 10 miles of walking.

Day # 40 Olveira to Cee  13 miles

Ready to walk again! I woke up this morning in disbelief. We will be arriving to Finisterre tomorrow!!!

Today would be an easy day in terms of mileage. There were still a few climbs, but we were excited to once again encounter the ocean! We started out on dirt paths and then after our first big climb, we entered a beautiful green forest, and then … the Atlantic Ocean as we entered our final descent (steeper than I would have liked)! Into Cee. Our Albergue (private room of course) was at the very beginning of Cee. The Camino literally deposits you into the Albergue. If we were planning on just staying in our room, it would have been ideal. But we wanted to explore, which meant more walking and a bus into a small adjacent beach town that offered ocean front dining. We were told that there was a spectacular waterfall as well but quickly realized that it would have required a few more miles of walking an a pretty steep climb. I am sure Todd would have been up for it if he had been traveling solo, but instead we walked out into the ocean, and sat on the beach until the winds kicked up so much, we were pelted with sand. We enjoyed a nice dinner and then ended up having to take a taxi back to our accommodations, as the buses were running very irregularly and we would have been stranded well into the night.

Hot shower, a game of Cabo, a bit of journaling and then our final sleep before the End of the World!

Day # 41 – Cee to Finisterre  8 miles

Walking a short distance today meant that we could sleep in and take our time walking. Of course, I was already walking slow thanks to the injuries but knowing that we would be arriving at our final destination today made me enjoy the turtle strides even more. I wanted to soak in every last bit of our journey!

Today we would reach the end of the world for the Romans and the place where the Celts worshipped the sun.  The route was a beautiful walk-through wooded paths and stunning beaches, always with the Atlantic Ocean guiding our steps. We stopped for a leisurely breakfast, navigated uneven rocks on a few climbs, shared our favorite memories of the Camino, and tried to prepare our minds, hearts and souls for the culmination of three Caminos. We had, in three years, had some amazing pilgrimages together. We did what many say is challenging (others say impossible); to walk hundreds of miles as a couple and enjoy the journey together, even through adversity, exhaustion, and injury.

Arriving at Finisterre meant walking for a few miles parallel to the coast, through parks and then finally into the town. When we checked into our hotel (not Albergue) we sat on the bed looking at a magical view of the harbor. The entire wall was a glass window and the views were ridiculous!  As excited as we were to have arrived at Finisterre, we knew that this was not quite the end of the Camino. Tomorrow we will walk a few miles to the lighthouse, which truly represents the end. But today, it was time to explore the town, find some food and meet up with Jürgen, our German friend who had arrived the day before.

Tomorrow, I will take the time to reflect on this journey. Today I will just enjoy the moment!

Day #42 – Finisterre and the Walk to the Lighthouse – The End of the World  2 miles

The  walk up to the Finisterre lighthouse follows the Atlantic coast and represents the end of our Camino. Historically, it was considered to be the “end of the world” by Romans and medieval pilgrims (Finis Terrae comes from the Latin ‘end of the earth’). It was also a noted landfall when sailing from northern Europe to the Mediterranean, and many battles were fought on this coast. The locals refer to this as La Costa da Morte (Death Coast) due to the many shipwrecks and battles.

Standing at the top of the cliff together was an incredible feeling of completion. We had completed another pilgrimage where we grew stronger as individuals and as a married couple. We learned that we could rely on each other but that we didn’t always need to because we are both strong and capable. We learned to cheer for each other and give each other grace when things didn’t quite occur as we had planned. We learned that when it gets tough, we problem solve, and when it’s easy, we celebrate together. We understood the significance of what we had just accomplished, but gave all the credit to God. We learned that when we release the reins and surrender to what is in front of us, with faith, we triumph. The only reason I say “we”instead of “I” is because we talked about the things we learned, and although there are some lessons or epiphanies that are individual, these were the shared lessons that applied to both of us.

When we started this third Camino, I told my husband this would be the last one for me. I didn’t need to continue doing this every year. Now that we stand at the End of the World, I realize that I will walk again I will come back to walk with my sister one day. I will come back to walk with my son one day. I may even come back to walk alone.

Everyone asks me, “Which is your favorite?” That is a nearly impossible question to answer. I will say this:  I am glad that my first Camino was the Portuguese Way. It was just long enough to get a taste but not so challenging that I feared walking another way. I loved the most popular route, The Camino Frances, because of its geographical diversity, well-marked trails, and the amazing pilgrims that I met and have developed lifelong friendships with. I am proud that I walked (minus a few days) the Camino Norte and Primitivo because of the physical challenge it provided and the friends that I made along the way.  There is no wrong or right path to take. All three Caminos, despite their differences, offered me the opportunity to take one step at a time, live each day as simply as humanly possible, have reflective conversations with God, myself, my husband and the many pilgrims that shared parts of my Camino.

We will leave tomorrow for Amsterdam and spend a few days in the Hague with friends we made last year on the Camino Frances.

When you walk a Camino, you become a pilgrim. We became pilgrims two years ago when we did our first Camino – The Portuguese Way. We started on the Coastal Route for a couple of days and then continued inland onto the Central Route all the way into Santiago de Compostela.  It was life changing.

We became pilgrims again last year when we walked the French Way. We started in St. Jean Pied de Port and walked all the way into Santiago de Compostela.  It was life affirming.

This year we walked the Norte to Oviedo and then the Primitivo to Santiago de Compostela and then all the way to Finisterre. It has been life surrending.

All three Caminos have reawakened in me; gratitude, humility, the power of miracles, the release of fear, and the strength of mind, body and spirit.

Walking the third Camino has been the most challenging from a physical perspective. I already feared that I would face many physical hurdles as I was almost 60, 15 pounds overweight, physically weaker, and fatigued before we even left the house. But my mind and spirit were strong. I knew that I would find the strength to deal with whatever obstacles were placed before me. How did I know? I wish I could give you the most profound answer but all I can tell you is that this year, what was undoubtedly the strongest asset I had going on this journey, was faith. First, faith in God. He has never failed me even when I have failed myself. Second, faith in my husband. I knew he would be there to push me when I needed and pick me up when I fell. And finally, faith in myself. I have proven to myself over the years that no matter how scared I am, no matter how challenging life gets, no matter how my body fails me or bad decision making hinders me, I don’t ever give up on growing.

I have never and will never stop “becoming”. Becoming a better person, becoming a stronger woman, becoming a more nurturing mother (and grandmother), becoming a more giving wife, becoming a better Christian, becoming more accepting of myself and others, becoming a better teacher and a learner, becoming someone who others want to be around, becoming more fearless … Becoming a Pilgrim!

Full Video of our Camino at Camino Norte and Primitivo #caminodesantiago #caminodelnorte #caminoprimitivo – YouTube